Passion Taking Flight

It'll raki your socks off!

2012-02-07T08:49:00.001+02:00

We had the most magnificent of accidents on Saturday evening!

We were with friends at our favorite bar in Asmali Mescit, chatting, laughing, shelling nuts as we sipped too many cocktails. O was having trouble that night. His favorite Brazilian beverage came to him different every time. The first one was perfect. The second was like a mint julep in what was supposed to be a caipiroska. The third...

...was magical!

The waiter set down drink #3 and we all lean forward to examine this unknown beverage. It looked like a mojito, but was cloudy and certainly not what he ordered. O took a sniff, took another sniff and said "Raki mi?"

Everyone plunged their straws into the glass and took a sip. We start to laugh uncontrollably as we're confronted by something none of us have ever thought of it before. A Raki Mojito!! The people at the tables next to ours are stretching their necks in curiosity now too. How could two such things go together?

+ =

The waiter took it away from us eventually as he had given us someone else's special order and placed O's perfect caipiroska down in front of him instead. We're definitely going to give it another try. Its probably totally dangerous, but our taste buds are completely curious.

Coming at you live...

2012-02-03T20:12:00.000+02:00

I'm going to write this as the story unfolds.

7:07pm - a car horn begins to go off non-stop.

7:45pm - the police finally make an appearance and find the source of the endless horn.

7:47pm: the police drive into the intersection and then decide to back up the street they came down. In reverse, they back up right into the little trolly pulled by the water delivery men. I watched the delivery man get knocked over and his little trolly crunched up by the big police van. They help him up, he bikes off on wobbly wheels.

7:55pm - police come back and park and get out, circle annoying car.

8:00pm - they are about the break into the car when the owner comes running out. Holy sh*t, where were you 45min ago?

8:02pm - car horn is off.

8:03pm - car horn is stubbornly back on.

8:04pm: 20 men, including the 4 police officers are now circling car with hood open.

8:05pm - still honking. A school shuttle, watching the commotion and not the road, rear ends a VW. Drivers get out and argue. Police don't seem to give a hoot. I find this all wildly entertaining.

8:07pm - I think everyone is about the give up and push car into the sea just to make the horn stop!

8:09 - horn has stopped. Or has it?

8:10 - Police jump back in their car and cruise off. Luckily without incident this time as poor old water guy passed moments earlier. Now with silence, neighbors yell out their windows at offending young man with annoying car.

Athena Concert - ISKV Salon

2012-01-28T10:27:00.000+02:00

We layered up and decided to brave the arctic climate to get to Taksim at 10:30 last night. The dolmus was waiting for passengers in the meydan with the engine running and the heat on. Sorry for the extra global warming, none of us wanted to wait outside in this! Concert tickets tucked safely in my bag, we were headed to an Athena show at the ISKV Salon in Sishane.

I've mentioned Athena before. Back in April, for my birthday, O gave me their new album "Pis" as a present. To which I have rocked out, learning half the words and making the other half up with english replacements or unintelligible non-words.

The speaker blocked the view just a bit, but this was 1,000x better than if I stayed on the floor. I never see a damn thing from the floor!!

End of the show, all band members taking a bow

"Serseri Mayin" The quality is a bit distorted...it was loud, as a concert should be.

Ice-stanbul

2012-01-27T14:32:00.000+02:00

I should have kept my mouth shut last week! I begged mother nature for snow and now, with concert tickets for this evening, I'm watching the city get blanketed in white. How we'll make it tonight, I'm not sure. I went out a bit to do a little photography, but otherwise, on my day off, stayed in and am giving IGDAS a little extra money with the gas turned up.

Stay warm today folks! Drink some hot tea and away from the roads!

If it were my home

2012-01-23T14:11:00.000+02:00

Between study breaks today, I was doing a bit of stumbling and came across a site I saw about a year back and stumbled right over. Today I played with it a bit and found out this:

(click to see it larger)

If It Were My Home.com is a website where you can take any two countries and compare them together to see statistics about living conditions.

I compared the US to Turkey and found out that I would consume less oil, electricity and 91.31% less on health care (ain't that the truth!!). I disagree with feeling less of a class divide here in Turkey as I feel they are 100x more transparent here than in the US. More babies? No, thanks.

So go on, go compare!

New Vısa

2012-01-22T09:10:00.001+02:00

For 2 years now there was a rumor buzzing through the expat community of a change in visa regulations. No one could get a straight answer from the consulates or from the Turkish government as to when, how and what this new visa would be.
The official e-mails came out earlier this week. A message from the US Embassy in Ankara telling us, well those of us still living on tourist visas that is, that the new visa comes into effect on February 1st! This apparently applies to British citizens as well, so if you're not sure, don't ignore this. Google is your friend, find your embassy and check.

So as to not play telephone here with the information, I am goıng to directly copy and paste the email so you can read, right from the horse's mouth:

Effective February 1, 2012, the Turkish authorities will implement new
regulations allowing a maximum stay of 90 days within a 180 day
period. The new regulation will not make any changes to the visa
requirements for travel to Turkey but it will affect how long U.S.
Citizens can remain in Turkey. The new regulation affects all
foreigners who travel to Turkey. This new regulation will apply all,
whether they travel with a tourist visa obtained at a Turkish
Consulate or buy a tourist visa stamp at an airport or other port of
entry or are exempt from getting tourist visas.

If you are planning to stay in Turkey more than 90 days within a 180
day period, you must get a Turkish residence permit. In order to
obtain a residence permit, please contact the Foreigners Police in
your area. The U.S. Embassy strongly urges U.S Citizens to not
overstay their visas and to maintain valid residency permits at all
times. Turkish authorities do enforce the laws, including those
stipulating fines, deportation, and bans on future travel to Turkey
for people who overstay their visas or do not maintain valid residency
permits.

' Turkish authorities do enforce the laws' Just thought I should remind you all. Yes, in the case of visas they really do and I have experience in that. I left 45 minutes shy of a visa running out once. Just before midnight, plane was boarding he and I spent 15 minutes counting the time left on our fingers. Since then, I've become a resident because that little blue booklet is worth the extra security. Too many foreigners get cocky and overstay and then pay a big fine or in the extreme cases get locked out in places like Bulgaria or deported the following day. My word of advice -- Don't risk it!

You better get your residency permits asap! If you need all the information, I have it right here:

Residency Permit

Lingo

2012-01-19T12:33:00.001+02:00

I have approximately 4.25 languages floating around in my head. In order of strength: English, German, Turkish, French, Yiddish (Yiddish cuz anyone that grew up in New York knows that schlep, speil, putz, futz etc are part of your daily lexicon). In my brain, all of the languages congeal together to make a super language that it virtually unrecognizable when said out loud.

For example: Off ya, I was çok hungry for açma and schmear when the scheiss cats knocked down la vas and I had clean it up and onlar bana meowed and now I am sehr kizdim at the mashuginas.

I'm not sure this is healthy...

Snow-less

2012-01-17T22:51:00.000+02:00

Maybe its because my commuting hours as a little easier than most people's that I'm kind of sad at the lack of snow our area has received. Maybe its our proximity to the sea, but while every other neighborhood around us was getting a heavy dump, we had blue skies and not a snowflake around. Saturday's little storm and rolling blackouts had us camped in several of Kanyon's various eateries all afternoon, only to get trapped in the metro with a power outage for about 20 minutes. O said from his office, the storm approached like in a end-of-days movie and 10 minutes before quittin' time. What usually takes an hour to get home became a 3.5 hour epic Trains-Planes and Automobiles experience for him. Maybe I'm crazy, but I want to make a snowman and dress him like a janissary, carrot nose and all.

Even mild-weather'ed Seattle is beat with a Snow-mageddon!

Fiddlesticks.

What's your Turkcell?

2012-01-16T09:59:00.000+02:00

Sometimes I run across something that I think speaks volumes about the society in Turkey. Like picking an appropriate cell phone package. I came across this yesterday when O decided to change his package to fit more with his tailored suits and fancy office.

To break down what each package offers, it gives you certain amount of texts and minutes, including free minutes at certain times of the day and discounts with certain business. For example, Genç (young), for students, gets you movie tickets, concert tickets, pizza and clothing. Professional has movie tickets and 20% of a certain store.

Are you a housewife? There is a package built for you!

Your free talk-time is between 12pm-5pm so you can catch up with far away friends and family, talk about the latest episode of Mutesem Yuzyil and finish up just before husband gets home and you need to put down the phone to make dinner. Subscriptions for health, home and baby news are available via text. Discounts can be used towards your gas bill(!!) and towards wedding linens.

Farmers have a tough life, so for 20tl a month you get a package to make plowing a field that much easier!

You package can be customized to animal, vegetable, fruit or mineral(??). From your phone you can get daily reports in your area about humidity and rain levels, wind and other useful agricultural information. Every month there is a drawing for a New Holland tractor and one lucky farmer will win!

I still have my US T-mobile account activated and as far as I know, there are no packages tailored to a specific persons needs. You just pick a package according to how many texts, minutes you'll use, 3G and so forth, adding or subtracting some stuff.

As far as Turkcell goes, I chose not to upgrade to post paid and stuck with pre-paid because I get better rates for sms which I use about 1,000+ of every month. Surprisingly, the minute usage for the housewife package fits to when I use my phone to most for work....

You know you're in Turkey when...

2012-01-13T13:16:00.000+02:00

Your house key gets jammed into the lock of the front door and the locksmith comes, tools and drill in hands, fiddles for 5 minutes and asks for some olive oil. Then proceeds dismantle and reassemble the well oiled deadbolts and magically it all works.

Olive oil. Handy man's tool of choice.

Try a Glass of..

2012-01-13T09:02:00.000+02:00

I've written countless times about the importance of çay in Turkey. The delicious winter creaminess of sahlep with cinnamon sprinkled on top and probably mentioned Efes Pilsen once or twice over the last 3 years. However, there are some drinks that don't get much of a write up as something as ubiquitous as ayran.

Şalgam

Its made with something that resemblses a carrot gone over to the dark side. Darth Karot. Its salty, deep purple and sometimes even spicy. Its common at döner restaurants and O has ordered it once or twice. Its really an acquired taste, by which I mean I don't like it. But don't listen to me, be adventurous and order a bottle with your sweetheart!

Evil carrot!

Cola-Turka

Isn't this obviously just the Turkish version of coca-cola? It came out in 2003 and manufatured by ülker, it used Chevy Chase in its early commercials as a confused American watching his cowboy buddy drinking a Cola-Turka. They have a diet version and a cappuccino version, which I would like to find to see how that combination even works. I think I've drunk Cola-Turka once over the years, while it didn't inspire me to sing the Turkish anthem on the spot, it was fine. It tastes like equal parts nationalism and generic brand soda from Safeway.

Fruco

Fruco is like a Sprite that someone mixed 60 pixie sticks into. Its so insanely sugary you feel a childhood buzz coming on when you start drinking. Its ever so slightly thicker than other lemon-flavored pop drinks and it has an insane amount of sugar! Its also seems to be everywhere lately as we go to eat pide or köfte and a can gets plunked in front of me, with straw.

(link)

Boza

This centuries old classic, Boza makes an appearance in the fall and throughout the winter. Its a malt drink made with corn with cinnamon sprinkled on top and served with roasted chickpeas. Its high in vitamins apparently and has some unusual rumors surrounding it such as drinking it will make a woman's breasts bigger.

Şerefe!! Cheers!

Weather Doldrums

2012-01-12T09:16:00.000+02:00

January is never a kind month to Istanbul. With mild and almost pleasant December you begin to think you'll escape the winter with just a few cold days. The temperatures have been stuck at just a mere fraction above freezing for the last few weeks, keeping us from getting any relief if it snowed. Everyone braces against wind and rain with their scarves wrapped up, over their noses. Children are squeezed into so many layers they look like little walking sausages. Our cats have squeezed themselves onto the heaters where they take long naps under a window getting beat with sleet.

Its a good think I got a coffee machine for Christmas. I need it in this weather.

Çay

2012-01-09T07:29:00.000+02:00

A nice video on the significance of Turkish tea.

(It begins for the first 10 seconds in Turkish and then continues in English)

Up before the sun is this morning, I laughed to myself when she mentions that stirring must be done with a great deal of noise, for it really does! Some people sit and stir absentmindedly creating an unimaginable amount of noise from something as small as a tea glass and teaspoon.

My Turk-aversary!

2012-01-04T11:00:00.000+02:00

Three years ago today, I first stepped foot on the soils of Turkey and although I didn't know it then, my life was going to change. From that naive tourist to the legal resident, I have become integrated into my adopted country and learned a lot along the way.

So for the start of my 4th year, I have a couple plans:

-Try, at least a bite, of kokorec (beef and intestine sandwich).

-Start drinking ayran (salty, yogurt drink).

-Try more Turkish recipes in the house.

-Travel (thats a given).

-Learn the lyrics to more Turkish music than just Duman and Athena.

-Attend a Cem Yilmaz show and laugh because I actually understand his jokes.

The list goes on and on!

New Years

2011-12-31T16:27:00.001+02:00

Grab a hot beverage folks, we're going to have a review of 2011!

Lets take a look at what I said I would do with the 365 days given to me this year: 2011's Resolutions.

It was the supposed to be the year of "domestic travel". The year my nikon camera was to get a work out snapping photos of old ruins in Mardin to the seasides of Bodrum and the war monuments at Gallipoli. Life, as it does, threw us a curveball and we had to postpone our Tour-extravaganza to 2012!

O changed career tracks and began a new job for a company in a sector that is far more challenging, rewarding and fulfilling than his last. He is as happy as a clam and looks snazzy in a suit. Vacation days a plenty, he still treads the waters as a new hire and we wait patiently until we can unlock the Pandora's box of weekends away.

We moved into a new house and are better off for it. Our previous neighborhood lacked all normal everyday shops, and now I give my business to a number of butchers and bakers and there are no hills to access them all! The cats are pleased with the two balconies and many windows and they have claimed the office as their own.

The second half of 2011, I stopped writing as much. I was stuck in a rut of working and putting together a house. I will start taking my camera with me more places as we begin to expand what we do and I understand more of the cultural idiosyncrasies surrounding me. About my blog though, did you know in 2011 I had:
-20,800+ visitors? Sure shocked me!
-Mercimek Kofte recipe, Islak Hamburger and Ezcane Gang are my most popular posts.
-My biggest audiences is in the US and Turkey. Germany, Sweden, France, Ukraine, Israel, Russia, Romania, Australia, India, South Korea and the UK commonly have high readership as well.

Resolutions for 2012!!
-Travel more!
-Continue doing good for street animals!
-Begin my Masters in the fall!!
-Write better, write more!
-Expand my knowledge of all things Turkish!

Happy New Years Everyone! Mutlu Yeni Yil!!

A Belated Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!

2011-12-27T09:48:00.000+02:00

I waited patiently for old Saint Nick, then I blinked and the whole thing was over with! Christmas went by quick and rather unceremoniously. I baked dozens of cookies the weeks before and am sharing them with friends and family.

A festive table for a Christmas Eve evening with friends. A perfect time to break out our cheese platter and knives, tins of sugar cookies, raspberry-almond shortbread and smiling gingerbread men. I also made mulled wine, packets of flavoring I brought back with me from Germany. It turned even the worst merlot into something drinkable. We exchanged gifts (nothing more than 10tl and the stranger the better!). It also snowed a bit that day. As O and I were meandering around town, we weren't sure at first if it was snowflakes whizzing past our heads. I think we always assume its some kind of garbage floating around, styrofoam left out in the street or something.

Christmas Day was rather unexpected. We breakfasted and talked of plans of heading to Taksim for a late lunch, shopping, drinks at Ugly and the exciting bit of buying cat food. Instead O's father came and helped me get O to the ER. He's alive, just became rapidly ill (not food poisoning!) and scared the bajeebus out of me.

Not the greatest of Christmas gifts.

I had to look away when the nurse stuck the IV in his arm. And drew his blood. He's out of the woods now and at work, but still a bit under the weather. And next year, we will celebrate Christmas amongst the insanity that is my family and Silesian sausages in Germany!

My lack of posting can be directly linked to the fact that I am working all day long. I only have stories of events that took place on my commute and so forth, but I find them to be all kind of bitchy. Thus I never share them. I do have a few things in mind and will hopefully pick of writing decent posts again in 2012. In fact, I challenge myself to write better in 2012!

Thursday I venture to the Vatan to register for that pesky residency permit again. This weekend is New Years and I hope we have time to visit the insanity that will be Nisantasi, before heading to parties.

So Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, Happy New Year to all!

Cimu, the kitten that can melt ice caps.

2011-12-13T13:11:00.000+02:00

Little Miss Cimu seems to be single handily causing global warming. You've heard the news that cows release toxic methane gas into the air? Well Cimu releases something equally as vile and thankfully there isn't a whole herd of her.

She had a little surgery last night for an oral issue. I took her by taxi to Anipoli and the faster the taxi drove, the more gas she released. She spent the night there and this morning on the taxi ride back, the driver and I had the windows open along the coast road, for we surely would have passed out from the fumes she let out. If it didn't make you want to run the other direction in horror, its actually kind of funny.

Either way, she is home and the little operation was a success. Perhaps still a little tipsy from the general anesthesia, she was tolerant of her brother as he cleaned her. She's my little girl and I missed having her visit me in the early morning after O suits up and goes off to work with the masses.

Lets see just how long it is before she clears a room again.

Sunday walk: Yesilköy

2011-12-11T19:13:00.001+02:00

We used to be in perfect proximity to walk along the Bosporus from our old flat, starting at Kabatas and making it as far as Rumeli Hisari. Seeing as how we moved over the summer, our seaside walking route has also changed. With busy work schedules, assembling ikea every weekend, entertaining visitors, attending weddings, throwing birthday parties, its been a long time since we've gone on an epic walk again.

Just a hop, skip and a jump away from Yesilkoy, this adorable little seaside corner of Istanbul adorned with old wooden konaks in all states from run down to lovingly remodeled. It has more cafes than you can shake a fist at, a wide walking path along the sea with playgrounds, beaches and an abundance of salt sea cats. Its also directly under the runway for airplanes taking off out of Ataturk. Don't be disturbed by jet engines, instead make bets on which airlines comes up next or take comfort in the fact they these giant metal birds won't shit on your head like all the seagulls flying around

Stepping out of the tiny train station

Was a bit windy, waves crashing against the rocks and sending out spray

The waves were rolling in and the birds sat on top, going for a ride

Kedi relaxing on the sea wall

I don't care about your opinion of Starbucks, I love this konak they remodeled for their Yesilköy branch. Its really comfy, big and warm inside.

HSBC and a few other businesses occupy this oldie but goldie

Its going to be our new little winter playground on those sunny weekend days.

iyi Aksamlar Istanbul

2011-12-09T11:02:00.001+02:00

Last night's sunset was the kind to inspire an arabesque melody, a few verses in a poem and half the folks on Istiklal to point their many smart phones in the air and snap a half dozen images.

Mini-Bus Mania

2011-12-02T10:41:00.000+02:00

I am not a minibus fan. I hate how loud they are, how much exhaust they spew, how the drivers behave like they are all junked up on Red Bull and in a Formula 1 competition with each other. In our new neighborhood, minibuses now stand between me and my favorite place to go grocery shopping / malls. One of the big reasons I dont't like the manicbus is because I can't balance worth a damn once I board.

I flag it down and it looks harmful enough filled with uniformed students, old people toting grandchildren.

Then it takes off and its alter ego appears. This is a beige colored hell demon as it rumbles down the streets. Everyone holds on tight, but they must be doing something I'm not because I seem to be the only one flailing around like a drunk.

I try to hand the driver exact change and it seems as though I am stuck in a dryer on tumble. I can barely control my bags and limbs. I've done sports that rely heavily on balance, I still walk on thin ledges and curbs like a child, all that skill flies out the window.

I don't know how I survive everytime. I always have to readjust myself once I jump out on wobbly legs.

Mc-Istanbul

2011-12-01T12:35:00.000+02:00

This post has actually been a long time coming. I never got around to ever taking a photo because I thought they would toss me out for being a complete weirdo for taking pictures of a menu board.

So, every country in the world has their McDonalds specialty. Japan has a rice bun, Germany and France sell beer. Canada has more sundae toppings than in the US (wtf!). İn Turkey, you can sample the McKöfte Burger. Nothing makes me sadder than ordering a burger and having it be köfte, so you eat it and tell me how it was.

McTurco with chicken or beef patties mix east and west as its basically like a big mac, but with pide instead of a bun.

Wow. Life.is.exciting.

The Eczane Gang

2011-11-22T18:32:00.001+02:00

I'm pretty sure almost everyone who's visited an eczane (pharmacy) in Turkey is familiar with group of old people who always hang out there all day long without fail. They sit with their aching bunions, bad hips, cataracts and god knows whatever other ailments, comparing, competing and sharing.

I decided to draw my experience visiting the pharmacy since I feel words can do no justice to how it feels to enter the lair of these old people.

You walk in and everyone is engaged in a lethargic conversation that sometimes gets side tracked or forgotten half way the way old people do. The pharmacist, bless them, somehow manage to cope with these geriatrich conversationalists all day long. Suddenly, they spot you!

And this is what they turn into! Eyes plunge straigh to your soul as if to suck out your youth. You've become fresh meat, a new set of ears, a new topic. They shout 'Otur! Otur! Sit! Sit!' and indulge their curosities, asking questions, trying to diagnose you. They do spend enough time in a pharmacy, they're practically qualified.

Sniffling and hacking up a lung from a bad cold I've become all to accquainted with this past week, the pharmacist readied my prescriptions while keeping the elderly at bay with distracted conversation of grandkids. Drugs and cash changed hands and I thanked her, turning to leave the premises.

The winds shift again before I make it to the door.

They're back to their normal selves and being almost like a grandparent to the lonely foreigner, far from home, they're gentle. They sing a chorus of 'geçmis olsun canım! get well dear!' as I leave.

And so, after visiting the eczane I lived to see another day. But I still have this damn cold.

Annual Consulate General's Breakfast

2011-11-19T16:50:00.002+02:00

Gathered into the emptied dining room of the residence of Consul General this morning, listening to him and his staff speak while balancing a plate full of crispy bacon, blueberry muffins and fresh filtered coffee on my lap with about 50-60 other women attempting the same balancing act. It was the annual breakfast at the CG's home and its easily one of PAWI's biggest events.

Mr. Scott Kilner addressed a number of major topics currently on the table for the US and Turkey, taking a moment to say something about the Arab Spring, Turkey's relationship wıth Syria and the bond growing between Erdoğan and Obama. Obama talks to Erdoğan almost more than any other world leader -- the first being British Prime Minister David Cameron. Talked about how the level of visits has increased between nations in Istanbul with Clinton having recently visited President Gül and how they are preparing for Vice President Biden's upcoming trip to Istanbul.

The Turkey-US-Israel triangle was a hot topic as it was discussed about domestic and international influences as well as security and economic. One interesting note was that Israel generally sided with Turkey on the case of Armenian Genocide in American congress. With the strained relationship between Israel and Turkey, there is uncertainty about the Armenian Genocide Resolution passing in Congress now. There was no debate about the Armenian genocide, it was more of a discussion of the relationship between those two nations.

Chief Security Officer, Seth...(İ did this last year too, I didn't catch his last name!), overviews his position at the consulate, focusing on crime, terrorism and earthquakes.

He says he works very closely with the Turkish police. He has only words of respect for them as he really spoke about how they are climbing out of a history of bribery and laziness, which an increases salary and higher education has helped improve. He says it may not be to our standards that we're used to in the US and Canada and thats true as I've never seen police less willing to get their ass out of the the cop car than here. That crime is lower in Istanbul than in most American cities, petty theft being the most common, violent crime being pretty rare. The room was sent abuzz when talking about the Gülen-ization of the police in Turkey. To make it brief - Fetullah Gülen is a religious fundamentalist living in the US (Pennsylvania) who was exiled from Turkey ages ago, but manages to still yeild incrediable amount of power here and has opened a number of schools in the US. Saying this, I probably risk having my blog shut down. Mr. Seth however, while aknowledging the number of police allying themselves with Gülen, it won't be a concern for safety.

Terrorism was only briefly talked about as he mentioned that the Turkish government is very adept and capable at investigating, finding and breaking down terrorist cells. The staggering figure is that the US gives the Turkish government $1 million dollars a day to combat terrorism, specifically the PKK.

About the ferry being hijacked, it was an individual who had terrorist affiliatıons but was acting alone. No passengers or employees were injured and also mentioned who inefficient it is to hijack a ferry as it can't go very far.

As far as earthquakes, a lot of the same information as what I wote in my blog recently and how to expect up to a 72hr 'silence' from the US consulate in the event of an earthquake.

Seth's wife Lisa who works in Visa services gave us facts and figures about İstanbul:
370,000 Americans visited Istanbul last year
30,000-150,000 at one time
20,000 Americans are registed as residents of Istanbul
the number of Americans born in Istanbul has gone up, as well as the number of deaths.
Turks applying for visas has gone up 18% and 90% of those applicants recieve their visas.
They also assisted 700 Americans out of Egypt and Libya during the uprisings earlier this year.
So full on delicious breakfast, jazzed on coffee and information, we had to sadly say goodbye until next year when we visit again.

A Chistmas İnvasion

2011-11-17T09:46:00.000+02:00

I first came to Istanbul many moons ago to avoid Christmas. It was perhaps a year of grinchly feelings and any rendition of Jingle Bells was sure to have unleashed my inner beast. Back then, just a few trees were decked in places such as shopping malls, hotel lobbies and the occasional living room of a homesick expat. Lovingly called the 'New Year's Tree', they are decorated with baubles, twinkling lights and tiny winking santa ornaments.

Following year, the Christmas rash spread a little further. Snowmen ad jolly fat St. Nicks hung from the street lıghts. They hung there until May.

Last year was the same, but had a more soothing effect as mulled wine became available in almost every bar and I took to Ugly in Asmali Mescit, drinking it and enjoying the toasty warm woozy affects that followed.

This year however, things have gotten out of control and its not even December! The onslaught of Christmas tidings followed my Swedish girlfriend and I throughout the mall yesterday. Starbucks has released their iconic red cups and winter menu. Gaint bundles of fake holly decorate their stores and Christmas CDs are next to the counter. Standing in Zara home, Jingle bells filled the air. Boyner, Tepe Home and many other have exploded with plates, serving dishes and kitsch adorned wıth reindeers and the like.

Every year its growing and growing. Now with all the yule tide feelings I feel compelled to throw a Christmas party!

A Glance into Cultural Alterations

2011-11-12T17:41:00.000+02:00

Often times many things are changed to tailor fit a culture. Movie titles and the like. Recently, I found my favorite in a bookstore:

Waldo is only lost in the Anglo world I suppose, while his Turkish cousin Ali seems to be misplaced somewhere around here. Same book, not a knock off. Just Ali.

Earthquake Prepardness

2011-11-08T10:01:00.000+02:00

Living in Istanbul, in Turkey in general, we expect our world to be rocked someday and not in the good way. We've had a number of rumbles in the last year and after Van, people are a bit on edge. Most people seem to be unprepared in the case of emergency, as though the vast majority of them seem to have forgotten the crushing earthquake of 1999 that killed 30,000+ people and devastated whole areas. Better safe than sorry, we took a few measures to make sure we at least have a fighting chance.

1) Establishing a safe spot in the house. The strongest point in your home, away from falling objects and somewhere to protect you. The triangle of life can save you if your home is crumbling around you. Snuggle against something heavy and sturdy like a fridge. İf the upper floors or ceiling collapses, it can help create a triangle, a space for you to survive inside.

2) Finding an outdoor meeting point. In the chaos, phone lines go down or are reserved for emergency services only. Some place such as a park, where the damage is likely to be minimal compared to a building.

3) Do not use the stairs! They're usually the first to collapse. Most people in 1999 were found dead inside collapsed stairwells, trying to escape to the streets.

4) Build a bag. Buy a small duffle bag or backpack (on sale now from Back-to-school shopping) and fill it with what you will need to survive. Account for three days worth per person.

We made ours from a bag we bought at Carrefour for 29tl. İnside its filled with what we can use to take care of ourselves if push comes to shove.
-A First-aid kit with everything from bandages, stitches, eye patch, blanket, bandaids and more. Bought from the US, Johnson&Johnson for $14. Weighs almost nothing, but full of essentials. Kits are also available at Koçtaş in the automotive section.
-Sweaters, hats, scarves, gloves and blanket. Nothing like an earthquake in the winter.
-Flashlight, extra batteries. From Koçtaş for 9tl.
-Pen, scissors, fat sharpie marker and paper. İf you need to leave a note or write down information you're going to feel dumb without these simple items.
-Cash. Takes up next to no room and if you couldn't get to your wallet, what then?
-Photo copies of ID's and passports.
-Hygiene products. Soap, anti-bacterial gel, toilet paper, wash clothes, tissues, feminine products. If you have contacts, add a travel sized lens solution or extra set of glasses.
-Lighter
-Whistles. Best way to let someone know you're alive inside.
-House keys. Where do you think you're going to find a locksmith at a time like that?
-Crackers, cookies. These last up to a year, mark on a calender when they have to be changed out.
-Water. Pack a liter of water. İt won't last long, but will help in emergency. It can technically last 2yrs, but change it out every 6 months. Mark on your calendar!
-Tent. We are buying a 2-person tent off hepsiburada.com. They're compact, cheap and after the news that there was a shortage in Van, the experience will only be tenfold in larger, more populated Istanbul.

Leave this bag somewhere you can grab it in a second. Don't shove it in the back of a closet or under the bed, you'll never get to it there. Put it closest to the front door, on top of a wardrobe. İf you want to hide it, put it inside a basket closest to the door.

This bag cost us under 100tl ($60) to build. We hope it was a wasted effort and that we'll never have to use it, but if we do that bag will become priceless. Although the government claims that building post 1999 are more secure, I take that information with a grain of salt. I'd rather be prepared for the worst and hope for the best and be pleasantly surprised versus shit-out-of-luck and unprepared.

Sometimes I think we've crossed the border into paranoia land, but then I remember Chile, Haiti, Japan, New Zealand, Van and so on and then I don't feel so crazy anymore.

İyi Bayramlar

2011-11-06T17:37:00.002+02:00

Kurban Bayram is in full affect starting today. Many a sheep, goat and cow has been sacrificed in the name of İbrahim, many families will share the meat with friends, neighbors and those less fortunate. After all, how are you going to fit all that meat into a freezer?

I'm a bit under the weather today. Caught O's cold he had over a week ago. Stayed in all day, sat on the balcony watching famlies crammed tightly into cars, dishes wrapped in aluminum foil on their laps. Many men carrying big bouquets of flowers trying hard to look macho with a bunch of daisies in hand. Children ring our doorbell for candy. O was smart enough to buy some last night...if I were alone, I would have eaten it all by now.

Our neighborhood has been sacrifice free, despite having this small sheep-sale area by the mosque. I really won't miss the smell when its all over. I was walking through the city when I smelled poo. I checked the bottom of my shoe and didn't see anything, even though it seriouly smelled like I stepped in something. Turned the corner and bam! Sheep. All baaah-ing away.

So enjoy the next few days off from work and herkese iyi bayramlar!

**About an hour or so after completing this post, the doorbell rang. I went from doing whatever inane household chore to jumping on the couch under the blankets to assume my near-death-experience with the cold so as to ward off guests. Not that we're hermits or anything, but we weren't up for the song and dance included in hosting, small talk and such. Our most-socially aggressive neighbor came by, the wife of the building manager. She's nice, but I will reserve her for a whole other post. She and O exchange a muriad of Turkish holiday greetings and then I hear the rustle of a plastic bag. O now has a handful of very fresh, very sacrificed meat. They complete their exchange, with the door safely shut, I jump out and cautiously approach the bag as though it may still be alive. He opens it in the kitchen as we stare deep inside the bag at the big chunk of red, very raw flesh. Our eyes meet with quizzical looks and I ask 'which animal?' as we have three options. Cow.Goat.Sheep. I stare at it for a few more seconds and seem to have judged it as sheep. Now...what to do with a big chunk of mutton...**

Revisiting our Street Kitten - Now with bonus happy ending!

2011-11-02T16:38:00.001+02:00

After going to the office this morning, I ran to the vet to pick up more cat food. Short segway before I go on to the point of this post. I always have to think, check, double check when asking for cat food. Its called kedi maması in Turkish. I have a bad habit of asking for: kedi memesi. Unfortunately that translates into cat breast and not cat food.

I successfully ordered the cat food from the kind, but burley looking Russian vet technician and met one of the vets in the hallway by the cashier. We talked for a few minutes about Cimu and Katu at home, but I was curious about the kitten we dropped off several months earlier. She was in terrible condition, on death's door with a broken bones and a hernia obstructing her ability to go to the bathroom.

Her first blog appearance

She had numerous surgeries to correct her shattered pelvis and hernia. This is one of the photos post op:

Its pretty obvious by how disjointed her legs were, she would not be able to walk on her own. This was taken back in early August.

This is how she spent the next 3 months. We wanted to find somewhere for her, but her health was very unstable, was still undergoing back problems and even developed a infection which led to a rash that tore apart the skin on almost the whole left side of her body.

We would check in on her, see how she was doing. Spend time petting her and giving her love. She seemed miserable in her prediciment, but at least she was alive and safe.

Today when I went to the vet and I asked about our little kitty the vet informed me she had been adopted!!

ADOPTED!!

Its not very often that animals at clinics get adopted. Most people prefer 'healthy' and purebreed cats and dogs, purchased from evil pet-mill stores like Arkadaşlar Pets in the malls. She told me a man came in looking for a cat for his family, a cat that maybe isn't perfect, but they can give a second chance and a nice home to!!

I did a happy dance at the vet and immediately told O who had the same sentiment as me: it was the best option we could have hoped for!!

Foodtastic France

2011-10-28T09:46:00.000+03:00

I spend a lot of time on my blog writing about food and consuming all things Turkish. Even when I go abroad I find myself drawn to a fresh döner and pide lunch. My trip to Switzerland and Germany was a chance for me to exceed my intake of all things rich and satisfy porky cravings.

We pulled into Geneva in a rented 9-passenger VW van, nicknamed the Church mobile. Awaiting us in kitchen was my aunt working up a frenzy creating pot after pot of black coffee and whipped creme. After all the hugging was complete, we sat down for a traditional German afternoon snack of cake and coffee. No one in my family lacks culinary skills, so we sliced up fresh homemade apple cakes and a chocolate rum marzipan cake.

Not long after cake, we sat down for dinner of raclette

To add a new level to our raclette eating, we added this contraption to pump out the cheese even faster.

What remains.

Prepping for the next day's dinner, we took a trip to a French market. The food offered and the atmosphere is so different than they mayhem of Turkish bazaars. Customers and vendors chit chat together, snacking on samples and talking of pairings. No shouting, more open space and I didn't get run over by a singe housewife loaded with plastic bags.

A huge paella surrounded by tons of fresh shellfish and salmon steaks.

The rest of our trip we fondue'd, gorged on fresh apricot jam, brie and baked that day croissants. I wish I could have taken it all with my in my suitcase.

Geneva

2011-10-27T14:47:00.000+03:00

I went to Geneva last week for a World Summit with representatives who came from all parts of the globe. Or so thats what it felt like. I flew in from Istanbul, my dad all the way from Australia, my mom from the US, aunt from Paris, grandparents from Köln and came together at my aunt and uncle's Swiss household. I think it was a family reunion of sorts, but it could have come from the fact that fondue can't be eaten by only one person, so its better to have a big party and eat with a lot of people.

To balance our cheese laden diet, we took walks through the city...

...which only leads to more eating at crepe restaurants.

Fueled on jambon et fromage crepes, we wandered the old town, along shopping street with windows decorated with cartier watches and along the lake.

All boats were being winterized as we strolled around

The iconic fountain of Geneva. Brave souls walked out to the peninsula is sits on, getting a Niagara Falls splash. It was sunny, but it was by no means warm.

I've been coming to Geneva since I was a little kid to visit my mom's sister and her yodeling husband and my cousins. Walks always include reminiscing about times past and one of them included my playground obsession, which very likely included this one.

A trip across the lake in a water taxi as the sun is setting.

There is no food in the post. I felt like swiss food deserves its own post, its just that delicious.

Spaghetti Western Istanbul

2011-10-17T09:23:00.000+03:00

I suppose you could geographically place us in Western Istanbul. Just didn't know how far west and and wild it was getting.

School started last month and now mornings are filled with the sounds of class bells ringing, school bus doors, children running and laughing and parents yelling assorted goodbye's.

One thing we were not expecting was to hear this everyday at 7:45am:

We finally figured out it was coming from the school shuttle buses! They don't want to honk, because everyone in Istanbul honks, so to avoid being super rude with a jarring horn and avoid confusion with normal traffic, they play the theme song to the Clint Eastwood classic "The Good, the Bad and the Ugly". The children run down the stairs, out into the street and board the bus, all prepped for school...or a showdown at lunch.

Just when I thought I had this city figured out...

The No Handshake Handymen

2011-09-24T09:36:00.000+03:00

This will be a "woke up on the wrong side of the bed" rant I had been thinking about lately.

Finding, renting, moving and living in a new apartment leads to a lot of handshaking. Or so I witnessed.

See, many of the men we dealt with would shake O's hand and then not mine. I would push it out there, leaving it hanging as a way of saying "I am 50% of this and you will respect that." They would look at my outstretched hand with wide eyes, look at my serious face and then be forced to shake. I would grip it and shake that hand like it was python wrapping around prey.

I don't care if they're uncomfortable. In fact, I hope they felt uncomfortable. Just because I'm the woman in this project and maybe sometimes my lack of vocabulary holds me back from explaining what I want, but dammit, I deserve no less respect than O. This is 2011 in Istanbul and not some eastern village 100yrs ago.

So to the 3 who extended their hands before I had to throw mine out, kudos.

Fanatical Female Fenerbahçe Fans

2011-09-21T19:55:00.001+03:00

Because men can not seem to control their inner animal at the football matches, throwing objects onto the pitch and in general being pretty violent, they have been banned from attending matches. I've mentioned that everytime we go to a game how the crowd is crushing you, people stampede through the doors, throw fireworks and even the police have had to use force. Fenerbahçe found a loop hole in this dilemma and the fairer sex was admitted into last nights match against Manisaspor.

41,663 women and children were reported as attending the match!!

Free tickets were handed out to female fans and to children under the age of 12. Some women were toting some very young fans along with them.

Women of all ages screamed and shouted, singing and chanting.

NY Times - In Turkey, Game Night Becomes Ladies' Night

Hurriyet Daily News - Fenerbahçe Stadium Becomes No Man's Land

Wish I had been there, jersey and all last night!!

I heard on the news this morning that several man managed to sneak in by dressing like women and covering their heads with scarves.

The Pepsi Cola Conundrum

2011-09-17T11:22:00.001+03:00

To me and most soda drinking Americans Pepsi Cola and Coca-Cola are two completely different companies with different taste. I remember in days of Jr. High, debates took place in the cafeteria, heated discussions on the difference between the two and which was better (we were 14, cut us some slack). If you order a coke in the US, the waiter will always do the "um, is Pepsi ok?" because they're different! Not so the case in Turkey. Cola is cola is cola.

At the AFM off Istiklal, I wanted to get a drink during the movie intermission. I approached the counter and to the teenage boy standing behind the glass counter filled with chocolate bars and gummies, I asked for a "Pepsi."

The boy just stood there. Dumbfounded. "A what??"

"A Pepsi, please."

"A what? Ne?"

"PEPSI!"

.......

"PEPSI!" And I point at the cold case behind him.

.....?

"Cola?"

*light bulb goes off* "OOOOHHH!"

Really? Was it that confusing? Cold PEPSI in hand and a straw in the other, I reflected on this little lesson learned. I now call it "cola" just like everybody else even though I secretly know the huge difference. I still just wonder why the young guy couldn't make the leap though.

September 11th

2011-09-11T14:46:00.002+03:00

One of our personal photos, NYC, 1980s.

I am not an in your face, flag waving, "God Bless America" American, but I still love my country as my home and all the advantages it provided. As a former New Yorker, these behemoths of finance are missed when I look at the city skyline for the last 10 yrs. I remember where I was clearly that Tuesday morning. I remember how it changed everything.

A reminder of all the people who lost their lives that day. To the police and firemen who risked everything to rescue survivors and now suffering with long term health problems. You are heroes. To the families of the victims of both the NY and Washington DC attacks. Also to the thousands of soliders and civilians who lost their lives or had their lives turned upside down for the resulting, senseless war in Iraq --I wish you all to come home healthy.

Overheard in Istanbul: Tourists

2011-09-09T08:02:00.000+03:00

Tourist season is coming to an end. With school starting many people have gone home, leaving the streets a little less crowded. Over the summer, I collected funny things I'd overheard tourists say while walking down Istiklal, communicating with security guards and on public transportation.

2 middle aged couples on Istiklal, stopped in front of St. Anthony's Church
Man A: Shall we go inside?
Woman A&B: Its not oooollldd enough

Backpacking boy and girl on tram going through Eminonu
Girl: I know all about Istanbul. Thats Topkapi Palace! (pointing to Yeni Cami)

Middle aged German couple, Kabatas-Uskudar ferry
Man: Two tickets to Galata Bridge, please.

Large cruise ship family of all ages, tram, Sirkeci
Mother: They have McDonalds?! I thought they couldn't eat beef!
Son: thats pork

Young couple, fresh off the cruise ship, photographing a simit cart, Kabatas
Woman: they sell retarded bagels

3 Young British girls emerging from their hostel, draping pashminas over their heads
Girl 1: how do they keep these on, mine keeps sliding down
Girl 2: its really hot in here
Girl 3: do we really need these?
Girl 1: it is a muslim country. Do you want to get stoned on holiday?
Girl 3: no one else is wearing them...

2 college grads, guide book in hand, walking across Galata Bridge, 2.5yrs ago
Girl 1: this bridge separates Europe and Asia!
(ok, ok this one is admittedly me from my first trip to Istanbul and its really, really embarrassing now)

Urban Camping

2011-09-08T09:01:00.002+03:00

O's stress reliever, all hooked up

Last Friday we scheduled the ISKI water guy to come, but before that we had to get the keys to our place. The contractor went on vacation for bayram, so we had to break in. Of course, the water guy came early and the locksmith came late. Didn't seem to be a problem for the chatty water guy, we think this may have in fact resulted in a mid-life career change for him. He was so fascinated by the locksmith essentially being paid to break in to our apartment, followed the guy around as he installs the new locks, tests the new keys and oooh-ed and aaah-ed the whole time.

Sunday, tiny, beloved Zeynep Teyze scrubbed our floors on her hands and knees, hung out our 5th floor windows with only a toe still inside and cheerfully chatted the whole time. Poor woman worked to the bone, but did us a huge favor making the place livable.

My kitchen. Still a work in progress and the last 2 handles are coming tomorrow. Since its so white, O and I are adding greens and blues. You can't see, but I have a big window and on sill are little cactuses sitting in the sun, an ikea kitchen island with wheels. Will add a rug and I want to add handing storage to get as much off the counters as possible. Need room to get my bake on!

Tuesday was our first day in the apartment. Drove the cats down the highway from Beylikduzu and Cimu has an internal speedometer. The faster the car went, the louder she screamed. 24hrs later she and Katu think they run the place.

Those little a**holes kept us awake all night long exploring, ripping things down, laying in my brand new bathroom sink, tearing at the prayer rug, climbing where they know they shouldn't and violating my cute little broccoli.

We still don't have gas though. We have to be approved by an inspector before IGDAS will turn it on for us. There was just enough for the Bosch specialist to test the burners, not enough to take a hot shower. I'm on 3 day hair. I normally only can handle 2 day hair. I'm debating between an ice cold shower or 7tl at a salon where someone will wash it for me.

(The office) However, I'd rather be without water than wifi. I am a true Millennial.

More furniture shopping here and there and eventually we'll have a completed house. Right now, we're only at 25% completion with everything.

Sunday Chaos

2011-08-28T20:04:00.000+03:00

Sunday, the lamest of all days, is also the one and only day where there is any kind of action happening in sleepy Beylikduzu. The streets go from empty, with children playing football during the day to people fighting over a parking space. Buses and mini-buses are packed with shoppers carrying plastic bags and dragging cranky children. Everyone is going shopping at the Sunday bazaar.

No video, just audio to give you an idea of all the sounds in the bazaar. People shouting prices, advertising their goods or yelling to a neighbor or customer. Turn it on and look at the photos, pretend you're there.

It goes on and on and on...

fresh corn and really big cabbage

Fresh fish

Eggs and Olives

domates. Actually not the nicest looking ones there, but its impossible to find a place where there isn't some "traditionally built" woman's butt in the photo as she bends over to inspect each and every single one before putting it into a plastic bag.

garlic and grape leaves.

Too bad I can't include smells in an entry. Garlic, pickles, cheese, fresh mint as you walk though.

Kadir Gecesi

2011-08-27T11:42:00.001+03:00

Trying to avoid iftar, we grabbed a dinner at a chinese restaurant in the mall with a funny name, Dong Fang. We survived the whole day in our apartment eating nothing but pringles, watching the kitchen get installed and not being able to leave because the gas and cable guys said they would come between 10am and 7pm.

We got side tracked upon entering the mall.

This man was handing out sherbet. Its a sweet drink made with rose hips, cornelian cherries, rose or licorice and spices. Posing for my camera, you can see that he has a big silver contraption on his back. He bends over slightly and the drink comes out through the hose. I'd never had it before and it was pretty good. Given the big, sticky puddle around the garbage cans in the mall, I guess a lot of people didn't enjoy it.

Yesterday was not only the last Friday of Ramazan, but also Kadir Gecesi. An important night in Islam where if you pray during that night, it will be accepted and fulfilled by Allah.

We were just about the head up the escalators to the food court when music started. Crap, I get too easily distracted.

Sufi were performing their iconic dance in the mall. Twirling and whirling for God, right there next to the neon lit fountain. We both thought it was a bit odd and out of character for the sufi, but perhaps they were trying to raise more awareness for their religion to get people to visit the meyhane.

There were singers in the food court, but I was too busy shoving sweet and sour chicken, fried rice and egg rolls into my mouth to take a photo.

Homeless, but with a house

2011-08-25T12:39:00.000+03:00

I'm mad as hell lately. Work on the apartment is going at a snail's pace, several days behind schedule and a 9 day bayram (holiday) starts next week. This means that our white goods, ordered furniture and bathrooms won't be delivered. We can clean and set everything up, but we'd have to go to McDonald's to go pee and eat. It will be about 2 weeks before everything is finally delivered and set up.

I was fuming the whole trip on the bus back to Beylikduzu. 1.5hrs of just being pissed off.

But on a high note, I saw a goat chasing a dog along the highway in Avcilar. Funniest thing in a long time.

Its been a circus

2011-08-23T21:09:00.002+03:00

In the US, we have a one cell comic in the newspapers called "Family Circus." Sometimes, they have a special one where the little boy is given a task, like getting bread from the store down the street and your follow the little map of all the places he got sidetracked to, like the park, up a tree, through a neighbor's garden, etc... Well its exactly how we feel lately.

This is a map of our week:

Last Thursday we took a journey from Beylikduzu to Kartal for a friend's wedding. Completely from one end of the city to the other and with no traffic it took 3hrs one way. Bus to metro-bus to another metro-bus across the bridge, train and then reverse with 2 detours.

Otherwise, we're always checking up on our new apartment and going all over the freaking place to mail packages, open our gas, water and electricity accounts.

I'm bursting at the seams to get into our new place! I am dying to unpack and no longer be living out of a suitcase. I can't wait to cook my own food again and use wifi. Its coming together. Painting finished on Saturday, shower installed, kitchen delivered and should be going up today. All thats left is the floors and that should be done tomorrow as well.

Everywhere is Istanbul

2011-08-22T11:10:00.000+03:00

Never to let our far reaching, globe trotting family down, my passport endowed father mailed me this from his latest business trip:

This was taken in Sydney, Australia.

It doesn't beat the time my dad found Ataturk and ayran in San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Death by Dolmus

2011-08-21T11:41:00.000+03:00

Yesterday our dolmus driver hit a man. Sitting in our usual seat in the back, we could all hear the "thunk", while our driver seemed completely oblivious. Honestly, he looked barely old enough to drive. The woman sitting in the front passenger seat was yelling at him "you hit that man! You drove right into him!" Driver continues on and only at the corner finally stops and slowly steps out of the dolmus. I thought he was going to run down the road to the man who's right side was smarting from the drive-by. The driver stood there, watching the man from a distance. I was getting whiplash from looking at the driver, the shrieking woman and turn 180 degrees to see the man. O, typically Istanbulite, looked completely bored by the whole schpeel. Driver finally moves, but not towards the man, he walks to the right side of his dolmus to check for damage and readjust his mirror. Hops back in and completes the trip to Taksim.

I Ifatar'ed

2011-08-16T21:07:00.000+03:00

I couldn't fast the whole day. I just couldn't do it. I started with the best of intentions and then I just went downhill from there. I was ravenous in the afternoon with a splitting headache and I caved. I ate a bit and drank a liter of iced tea to hold me over until iftar.

We left the house at 7:45 to get to the restaurant to meet O's friends in time to sit, chat and wait with salads, water and pide in front of us untouched. With no mosque around to hear the prayer, we had to wait for the waiters to give us the signal.

Salad just sitting there, staring at us for 20min. While we waited, they guys caught up and we talked about fasting a bit. I mentioned I didn't really fast, but if I did try again, I'd start at noon. I think I could handle it then. It got a laugh at least.

Ezogelin çorba to start

Finishing up the main dish

Kunefe. This beloved dessert from Hatay is basically hot cheese. I don't actually like it, but dozens of plates were being served and people dug in "mmmm-ing" the whole time. I ordered sutlaç, which I ate all of without thinking of taking a photo.

We'll do another iftar with O's mom this week. She's been helping us so much with moving, we'll go have a big dinner with her and you can't get bigger than iftar. None of us are fasting though, its just fun to be in the atmosphere.

O has celebrated every Christian holiday I've dragged home. Difference being, I usually force him to eat all day long. Its an adjustment for me to go so long without fueling myself. Going without food is one thing, but not being able to drink is a whole other struggle.

Our Apartment: Before

2011-08-13T23:24:00.000+03:00

Officially today, we closed on our new apartment. After searching high and low, going Asia to Europe, meeting with 1,000 emlakci's and looking at places that make your skin crawl, we finally found it. This new place will make your spine shiver as well, however its being completely renovated and in 2wks we'll move into an apartment with a new kitchen, fresh paint, new windows and flooring.

Yowza! What an old school kitchen! Thankfully you can see its being torn down. I love that it has a lot of light. Today, we selected cabinets and informed the guys of what kind of white goods we have. We basically customized it to fit to our new Bosch stove/oven, fridge and dishwasher. I'm excited to cook!!

A sample of the floor we selected.

The yellow paint is a bit startling. Its being repainted into a neutral beige as this is the living room and also the dining room (not pictured). The windows are brand new, just put in this week . I can't wait to clean and shine up the old school parquet flooring. There is a small balcony to the left, just big enough for a small table and two chairs.

Since we still have to wait two weeks, we'll be a little displaced. We're moving all the furniture and boxes over Monday or Tuesday, but we won't move until the end of the month. Until then, we'll be living with O's mom, which only certainly means I will gain weight.

When we move in, I'll give you pictures of the much improved after! In the meantime, we have a wedding to attend and tomorrow night we have iftar with friends and I will try my best to fast. Like getting up at 4:30am to eat and seeing if I can even last until 2pm. We have no big agenda, just the last few items to pack. I'll keep you all updated on how it goes tomorrow!

Packing Up

2011-08-12T10:01:00.002+03:00

Who knew that after two and a half years I could have accumulated so much stuff. Clothes, books, kitchen stuff, even Christmas decorations. We've utilized every available box and newspaper in the house to wrap up and pack up everything we own.

Ataturk? Where you going?!

The apartment was previously furnished so luckily not everything is coming with us. But enough of it is.

I went down to DIA in the rain and found the manager with his clipboard talking with an employee by the coca-colas.

"Excuse me, but we'll be moving out and ...."

"...and you're looking for boxes?" finished the manager. Guess he's filled this request before.

His employee ran into the back, came out with two big boxes, dusted them off, folded them up and handed them over. We'll need more, but this is a start.

I took like 20 coffee breaks packing all this up. It extends all the way left and right and everyday the pile gets higher and higher. I keep mixing up my labels between English, Turkish and Yiddish, so really only I now know whats in the boxes. To O and his mom who's helping, everything will be a surprise.

I found out while packing that we have three, THREE turkish coffee sets. We don't have water glasses, but we have whisky and wine glasses or we can shoot water out of the turkish coffee cups.

The place we will probably move in to is currently being remodeled. New windows, bathroom, kitchen, paint and floors, so we have to wait and live out of boxes for a few days. Sunday or Monday the movers will come and schlep everything over. I really hope the movers won't be fasting. They have to walk up and down from the 6th floor and we have a big ikea couch and fridge. I don't want them passing out and getting trapped our sofa.

All thats left now in the journey is to sign the papers and move in. I will document as best I can.

***I had to update****
We went to Besiktas to buy some boxes after the bakals and DIA were out or had smelly ones. We bought big, really sturdy boxes for almost nothing and packing tape. It was worth it to ensure our dishes come to us as a 5 piece set and not in a 1,000 pieces. Packed up 97% of our place, only the really, really everyday stuff stays out.

I took this photo to scare my mom. I would like to tell you this is all of our shoes, but not even close. Not by a long shot. I already backed a box full. Two more boxes full.

After we move, two things are going to be mandatory. A manicure and a massage.

Kitten needs a home!!

2011-08-08T10:17:00.002+03:00

Laying desperately in the dirt, separated from her 6 brothers and sisters, we picked her up from the corner of a busy intersection to place her safely with her mom and siblings. It was then that we noticed she was dragging her backside. Seeing her play and run around almost every day for the last 2 weeks, we knew something had happened to her.

We cleaned her up. She's having trouble getting to the bathroom because of her back legs, so we've been washing her off every so often. With all the activity at that corner and with how neighborhood children like to play with the kittens, we've been letting her rest on our terrace in a comfy bed with fresh kitten food, water and a little poop box to train her in.

She's in immense pain, so we're taking her to Anipoli this morning now that they've opened for the day. Put her on some meds, get her a check up and see if she can be placed in a home once she's all healed. Otherwise, we'll return her to the street to, all healthy, to her mother.

She's really sweet, affectionate and purrs on our lap. She loves to be scratched behind her ears and is playful despite her disabilities right now.

Anyone looking for a little kitten once she's good as new? Let us know. In the meantime, she's going to get the best care possible.

**So, she's going into surgery today or tomorrow. She has a broken tibia in her back right leg and a hernia which is causing her constipation. We're lucky though that she was still eating and drinking like a champ. She will get a pin in her leg and her hernia corrected and then after we let her rehabilitate with us for a week or so, in that time we'll also train her, we would really really like to find a home for her!!! Ucretsiz!!!**

The Almighty Sucuk

2011-08-07T12:55:00.000+03:00

Sucuk (pronounced Sue-juke) is something of a super food here in Turkey and is loved in every corner of the country. O's nose picked up the scent of sucuk like a bloodhound as it was coming from a neighbor's apartment. Watching him practically drooling, I put on my shoes, tied up my messy hair and went to the market just down the road.

We never eat the stuff, I'm not a fan so standing there in the cold case there are so many brands producing sucuk to chose from. I settled on Polonez because 1) cuz its "Polish", but about as much as I am 2) they have a pretty decent restaurant on Bagdat Caddesi. Its produced with beef and sold in a horseshoe or "Kangal" shape.

Given my handicap in being able to reproduce even simple Turkish cooking, I let O take the reins.

All sliced and placed in a pan with hot oil.

Cook it all up till they shrink a bit and turn brownish red. Then crack open some eggs and spread it on top.

Fresh bread is very necessary!!

I was busy making tea and coffee so I missed a photo of the finished product in the pan. In one of those small pans, you can eat it straight out of there, everyone dipping their bread in and scooping up the oily egg and sucuk. We cut ours in half and ate from our plates all boring like.

I can only eat a certain amount before the grease and oil get to me. I ate a peach afterwards to counteract it. We sometimes talk about the difference between our diets and what we're able to eat vast quantities of. I can do a greasy American diner breakfast, but not sucuk and eggs for some reason, where for him its the other way around.

I remember one time when we were watching the latest season to Survivor (Turkish version) and the contestants were in the Dominican Republic. One of the competitions they fought tooth and nail for was to eat sucuk. They went ballistic when they new what the prize was. I'd prefer shelter if I were them, but their eyes were as big as sausages for sucuk.

Emlakci vs Real Estate Agents

2011-08-06T18:37:00.001+03:00

We shifted our focus and in the last few days we've been finding better and better places. But still no new home. One of the biggest challenges for me is working with real estate agents (emlakci) in Turkey.

I have to say, I really favor the American system for house hunting. One big system that all registered agents search through, a big mega database of homes. You find an agent you like or at least work well with and then they guide you here, there and everywhere showing you property after property.

In Turkey it would be too much to ask if it were that simple. Every night we search through milliyetemlak.com, hurriyetemlak.com and sahbinden.com for new listings. Then we have to call the individual agency to get a look inside. They only have access and control to their listed properties and outside of that, we have to go to yet another agent. Some of the days we're meeting with several completely different agents to look at home that are perhaps next to each other. In between we sit in the office, they make phone calls, we have to wait, then walk over and I find it frustrating.

Maybe with Ramazan its worse. Some agents are just tired and lazy. They don't want to go out in the heat, they don't want to get the keys from someone and then wait for us as we take a look.

The kitchen of a contending apartment

Another issue is the "Married" dilemma. They always ask us if we're married. Since we're not, we get a long "hmmmmmmmmm" from most agents who then without fail ask "when are you getting married?". Jeez, do you want an invitation or something? Who knows. When we feel like it. A lot of building managers don't want unmarried couples living sinfully together. We've come across a few conservative buildings where if you haven't popped out a bunch of tots, dont bother coming by to look. Wouldn't want to live there anyway. Once again, the difference between the US and here. I'd never let someone ask me that in the US as a way of judging if I could live somewhere.

I hope we find something soon. I've reopened half of our packed boxes looking for stuff. Had a horrible headache and was looking for my extra-strength tylenol. Checked all boxes labeled "bathroom", using scissors to cut them open, messing up all the contents inside. Turns out I left the bottle of tylenol out on the washing machine on purpose since I knew I would get a headache from all this and had simply forgotten.

**After rereading this post, I realized that apartment hunting makes me really cranky. I'll try to cushion this with some more upbeat, less whiney posts soon! In fact, I may even give fasting a try and you can watch me crash and burn at that. I have no will power!!**

Apartment Hunters International

2011-08-03T11:30:00.000+03:00

I wish our experience was like House Hunters International. Three potential homes, each one with an up side and downside, eventually leading the people to chose one and they're always happy with their decision in the end.

The few places we've seen so far have been laughably awful. One was so scary, I started an almost uncontrollable nervous laughter. Here you can see why:

The laughing nearly became tears, because I couldn't imagine living here...

We're not on a shoe string budget. We have one, but the problem is finding a real estate agent who isn't full of bullsh*t. These sketchy stairs belong to a a very nice building, almost brand new, bright sunny apartment, big, spacious, the emlakci (real estate agents) claim its 200 meters from Bogazici University. In fact, its almost 2km down an insanely steep hill, in a construction area, next to the highway and in a low rent neighborhood. Apartment: B+, area: F-----! Plus, the agent who met us there was legally blind.

In Uskudar, the emlakci used photos from a different apartment then the one he showed us. The size was way smaller than listed, barely even 1/2 and the only redeeming quality was windows that tilt.

More and more looking tomorrow and Friday. Tomorrow will be mega hunt in Sisli and perhaps even O's old stomping grounds of Bakirkoy. His mom will join us because this woman has gonads big enough to make anything happen. So big, she took control of a public hospital a few months back that had descended into chaos all while sitting in the waiting room.

Kedi Sunnet

2011-07-31T08:15:00.000+03:00

We were joking about holding a sunnet (circumcision) party for our cats. We'd prepare some food and everyone brings us gold. We laughed with the vets about the idea, but the kittens didn't seem to find it that funny.

In the hustle and bustle of moving, we took our kittens to get "fixed." Hissing the whole walk from the door of our building to the waiting room of Anipoli in Cihangir, they knew something was up. We got them back about 24hrs later in their newest state.

Our little boy Katu seems none the wiser on what happened to him. In fact, he's been oddly affectionate since and still really mischievous.

I'm gettin' fixed? Is I broken? - Cheezeburger.com

Relaxing the following day on the window sill, trying to get relief from the heat

Cimu, our little girl, has it way worse. Her surgery was far more invasive and she's been stuck inside a cone since Wednesday. We take it off of her throughout the day so she can clean herself properly (all but the "spot") and get some air on her neck. Otherwise, she's a trooper with the cone, maneuvering like a bulldozer and still beating on her little brother. She has been really loving and sits on our laps in the evening as we scratch her all over as her little engine purrs away.

Cone-less cleaning time. You can see her stitches and her blue little belly.

Its been a long time since I've had a cat neutered or spayed in the US. My cat, Otto, who is the loving and loyal house lioness belonging to my mom and dad in Seattle, was spayed before I adopted her from the shelter 9 yrs ago. However, I can't help but remembering that our methods are really different from here. I somehow remember the female cats at the animal shelters not having such a long recovery time, nor having the stitches so big. I vaguely remember them using the melting stitches even.

Anipoli did a great job, kudos to them. The wound is completely clean, sewn up expertly and Cimu is hardly bothered by them even with her cone off. However, I can't help scratch my head that our US method is different.

A lot of people were vehemently against us doing this to our cats. That they need to have babies at least once first. *Eye roll*. First, they're brother and sister. We don't want some kind of "Flowers in the Attic" relationship developing between the two of them. Secondly, I don't want them to start marking in the house and finding urine all over our soft surfaces. Third, fixed animals have a lower risk of cancers and of contracting diseases such as FIV. Last is kittens. Way too many abandoned, starving, motherless baby kittens out there and a trip to any vet clinic and you'll find them bursting with 1/2 dead kittens rescued from the street. Its nightmare-ish to see. We all knew I'd get on this rant again, didn't we? Happens every time.

We wanted to get it done before we moved and had to travel a distance to get to this vet or find another one that we like as much. Last night, cone-head Cimu kept trying to climb into the suitcases as we packed up the walk in the closet. I think she's ready to get into the new apartment.

Moving

2011-07-25T04:43:00.000+03:00

For the next month or two, O and I are going to be looking for a new apartment in Istanbul. I'll writing about the search, the obstacles and then ultimately the move-in.

We've been talking about moving since winter when we noticed our old building is developing some problems. Problems that are not really something we care to spend time or money fixing when there are other reasons for moving.

Beyoglu is going through some major face lifts. There is a lot of construction near our home of some mega huge buildings. These projects are multiple year undertakings that are really affecting how we live. The noise isn't too bad, however every surface in our home is covered in find particles of cement, sawdust and god knows what other horrible things we're also breathing in. It creates a fine layer in a day and its been impossible to keep dustless since they started the project. Currently they are also staring huge projects on the Tarlabasi neighborhood and after that, they will begin work on redoing Taksim Square to make it tunnels passing under it, so that it will be pedestrian only.

We've begun looking in the European side neighborhoods of Sisli, Besiktas and the Asian side neighborhood of Uskudar.

Luckily our taste is the same. Spending hours looking through hurriyetemlak.com and the like, we laugh at paint choices, we skip places offering dark, closet sized kitchens and gag at photos of Ala Turka toilets (squat toilets).

Transportation is also a must. I hate the idea of feeling isolated and having it be a chore to get anywhere. There are some amazing new apartments with beautiful gourmet kitchens, swimming pools, gardens and amenities in the middle of butt-effing-nowhere. We prefer to live central, near public transport and in an established neighborhood.

We have a 1/2 dozen places bookmarked and this week we'll take a ferry ride to Uskudar and take a real look inside of each one.

As we take each step, I'll post here to let you guys know how its coming along.

Back to the 'Bul

2011-07-23T04:48:00.000+03:00

My cats think I am one of them as I sit here at 4:30am, jet lagged and working on my computer in the dark. Being sly nocturnal creatures, they sneak up and attack me from all angles. One step ahead of them however, both Katu and Cimu are now equipped with reflective, break-away cat collars with bells. I can see and hear them coming. These bells act now as a warning system to naughtiness since we've had to remove every single house plant, leaving the apartment looking a little bare.

I survived the long haul flight in one piece yesterday, only to be defeated by passport control. I cruised through Amsterdam, scoring overhead bin space so I could stow the Xbox I dragged with me safely. I tore through that wall of heat on the jetway between the plane and the airport. With my best speed walk, I race towards passport control. The only hurdle between me and home now.

Normally its crowded, but yesterday was the worst I have ever seen it. All three sections were open to passengers and the Disney-esque switchback lines were bursting. Each section only had 1 agent working. 1. One single, solitary passport stamping person. It took 70 minutes from standing in line until I finally made it through. Poor O was waiting the whole time. If we had known, he could have taken a flight to Antalya, visited his family and come back in time to meet me outside baggage.

So I'm back in Istanbul. Bags are unpacked, new clothes hung up, stories shared and now I also finally have my summer. No more vitamin D deficiency for me!

Julvember

2011-07-23T04:31:00.000+03:00

I can not emphasize enough how freaking cold I have been the past 3 weeks in Seattle. I got sunburned my first weekend here and then it just went down hill. Hiking plans were canceled on account of rain and for pete's sake, we're Seattleites! We have gortex skin and can handle any amount of wet and gloom. However, here we sit at mid July, wondering if we're ever going to stop rusting and start tanning.

Its dark today, like December-soul-sucking dark. Having watched Harry Potter last Thursday (I am a wait-in-line-till-midnight kinda girl), I'm thinking perhaps Lord Voldemort has returned and Seattle is clouded over with dementors.

Despite the weather, I've been on the go constantly and honestly mostly eating.

A bunch of us went to the Bite of Seattle, an annual food festival here in Emerald City. Restaurants and food vendors from all over serve up their specialties from corn on the cob to gourmet ribs. We shared all our food so as to fit in a variety instead of stuffing on one thing. Consumed: sweet potato fries, a halibut fish taco, Thai Iced Tea, lamb gyros and Philly cheese steak, chicken and artichoke crepe and alligator!

Deep fried alligator from a Creole stand. Tastes like chicken, weird rubber fishy chicken.

Then came dessert. Strawberry shortcake was eating while we took in a comedy show in one of the beer garden.

The wedding I came for got lucky. Thursday for the rehearsal we had a downpour. Come time for the wedding on that Friday and the skies cleared up a bit and the lawn dried off enough for us the stand in the grass and aerate it with out heels.

So apparently, Seattle has 300 consecutive days without reaching 75 degrees. Must be a slow news week as all over you heard about how we've only had 78 minutes of legit summer this year. 12 minutes on one day where it reached 75 and 66 minutes on another day. That being said, it was apparently raining all day so even though it reached 75, it was soggy and humid.

Indulging

2011-07-11T20:45:00.001+03:00

This trip has been about cramming as much as I can into 23 days and seeing how much more I can cram into my suitcase.

I am starving all the time. I want to tear into breakfast sandwiches dripping with bacon. I eat bags and bags of salt and vinegar potato chips. I think half my weight is now in thick, local farm chocolate milk. I've eaten 2x my weight in Tillamook chocolate-peanut butter ice cream. Drench BBQ sauce on a pulled pork sandwich at a fair, snacked on a 2lb bag of red vines (this is the only one I don't understand) and devoured Mexican food by people who are actually Mexican and not from some Anatolian village. I am still waiting for a great steak from Jak's, anything from Jack-in-the-Box and Carolina BBQ ribs.

Breakfast with dad at Beth's

Then I am going to need a seatbelt extender on the flight home. And my burps will certainly sound like oinks.

One point during the wedding, I sat alone at one end of the wedding party table, shoveling the 2nd plate of food into my mouth when the seamstress, a wonderful woman with a great sense of humor, comes over to me to let me know that she won't be able to let the dress out.

Besides food, I'm indulging in Americana. Saturday I attended a barn raising. In a very urban suburb of Seattle.

Friends, neighbors and curious folk alike came bearing platters of food to see this project belonging to an old Scottish friend of my parent's. Plaid and cowboy boots, galore, people really took up the part of dressing for this old timey tradition, but with the modern addition of a big gas grill and several kegs.

There was even a blue grass band that performed through the evening and a lot of people busted out a 2-step and everyone got down. Most of us student who attended schools in the Northshore district were taught country line dancing from 7th grade on. We excel statewide in education and a do-si-do.

The following morning, we hit the Ballard market. Ballard is a neighborhood in Seattle famous for being very Scandinavian. Very. This neighborhood flies the colors of Norwegian, Danish and Swedish flags, stores sell trolls and pickled fish. Viking hats are ubiquitous. They also have an excellent farmer's market and at the same time this weekend, a Seafood-fest (excellent!). We bought pints of organic raspberries, strawberries, veggies and even smoked salmon for me to take back to Istanbul.

The market was crowded, but its so different from the ones in Istanbul. No hurried and wide set house wives knocking you down, no vendors shouting prices in your ear and thankfully no bartering. There were street performers in rabbit costumes entertaining a crowed that was a mix of urbanites, hipsters, yuppies and eco-savvy folk like my parents, buying farm fresh everything from rather young and attractive male and female farmers. Free samples are handed out and at the end I had a stomach full of apricots from Corvalis, Rainer cherries, salmon from the coast, but I missed out on a bacon cupcake.

Fair fare, pulled pork

We ate well from our market visit that evening and I topped it off with a showing the 5th Harry Potter in the late evening at a friend's. We need to catch up all the movies before we stand in line on Thursday evening for the midnight showing of HP:7.2.

Until then, more indulgences and a looser belt.

Seattle-ing

2011-07-05T19:46:00.000+03:00

Coming out of the clouds for our descent into SeaTac airport, I forgot how green it is. Landscapes dotted with minarets are replaced by tall evergreens and the Bosporus has been traded for lakes Washington and Union.

I overcame my 10hr jet lag like a champ on this trip. A bacon hamburger induced coma caused me to fall into a 13hr sleep starting at 6pm that reset my clock. My friends supply me with pots and pots of coffee in their homes as we bridesmaids prep for the upcoming nuptials of K&D.

Everything I've eaten since I've been back has come off a grill.

Yesterday there was more BBQ down at the shores of Lake Washington where we watching two graceful bald eagles soar in the sky as we discussed nature and beauty while sipping lemonade, only to watch in horror as each bald eagle swooped down and snatched a duckling out of the water from it's mother. Mama duck quacking and chasing the predators, but it was futile. Being back in nature is scary. The most I see from the terrace in Istanbul is a bunch of seagulls fighting and then occasionally as act of cannibalism, but I only think about there being one less seagull to poop on my laundry.

Down to the south end yesterday, I went to another BBQ to catch up with old friends in their new home. After more burgers, corn-on-the-cob and a big plastic cup full of High-C, I drove up I-5 to the north side to accompany some friends some fireworks on the Tulalip reservation. With no regulations, the firework displays are enormous, beautiful and completely psychotic. They just light them off in a big field and sometimes they don't make it into the sky, exploding along the ground. Observing from a safe distance, we wondered how many fingers were blown off.

The sun is shining, I'm sunburned and surprised by it! The first few days were so typically Seattle, but July really turned things around.

However, one unsettling thing at the moment is the lack of squirrels. Where are the squirrels!! It has been a week and I have not yet seen a single one!

Heading West

2011-06-27T09:26:00.000+03:00

Tuesday morning at 5:50am I am taking a flight back to Seattle for the first time in a year. The sun will just be coming up over the 7 hills of Istanbul as I board my flight and say goodbye for 3wks to O, the kittens, the Bosporus and summer warmth. I land 20+ ungodly hours later to rain, a slight chill and a land full of endless gourmet opportunities.

I am returning to attend to my duties as bridesmaid for one of my best friends. I can't wait for the cute cocktail dress with pockets she chose, photo shoot with my friends and watching her take the next step. Its also high time I catch up with friends and see my parents in their newly remodeled house. Running low on my foreign supply of certain items wil make this a trip of necessity as well. Cosmetics and electronics are very expensive in Turkey, especially compared to the States, so I plan on raiding the local Target.

I have nothing much in my suitcase as of right now. Traveling light, only a few clothes and one big bottle of raki for my dad. I am nervous at only being allowed 23kg on the way back. I'm not sure how I will fit several pounds of Tillamook extra sharp cheddar cheese, bacon, brown sugar and whatever else my or O's taste buds miss.

So later this week you'll be getting news from the opposite side of the world.

Lazy Sunday

2011-06-19T14:01:00.001+03:00

I was never really the biggest fan on Sundays. It was always just before that dreaded Monday and could never be as fun as Saturday, plus everything is closed.

Mesala...our kitten broke his leg. First, being terribly pragmatic and broke parents, we thought he just tweaked it a bit and will walk it off. He was limping, but still using it. Kittens are like rubber after all. What ignoramuses we were. Poor thing broke his leg and we waited to take him to the vet. Several x-rays later, he has a small hairline fracture in his leg. Unfortunately, we don't find any of this information out until its 8pm on a Saturday.

The vet had dosed him up before handing him back to us after spending a day in the kennel. He was good of pain meds for a solid 24hrs. Stressed and scared, we didn't want to wander around with him up and down Cihangir and Taksim on a crowded Saturday night, we figured we'd be ok until the next day.

Relaxing in the shade of the table on the terrace with his sister. Like a good boy, he keeps his bad leg on top and even elevates it against the wall.

Sunday. Not a pharmacy open. Stupid Sunday. I walked to every single one I know to read the notice on the door. Each pharmacy posts the name and address of the one pharmacy in an area that remains open. I checked that one pharmacy. They didn't have it.

Our poor little guy doesn't need surgery or a cast. He just has to not play, run, jump, skip, dance or anything for one week. Impossible when you're three months old. But he does need pain medication.

4hrs until medicine time and I like Sunday even less.

***update: as of 3pm, I went to Besiktas where I found an open pharmacy near the çarsi and found Katu's medication. It was only 4.50tl, but since they did't want to break my 50tl, they only charged me the 3.65tl I had in my change purse. Awesome and awesomer.

Calling a "WTF" in Istanbul

2011-06-15T14:15:00.001+03:00

Bluetooth has been taken over by the rotary phone here in Istanbul! If you're a social fashionista lunching in Nistantasi or a power woman conducting calls on the go, your new accessory will not fit in your tiny clutch bag or slim briefcase. Best dig out a big hobo bag to fit this piece of technology in there!

I heard about it months ago from a friend of mine working in the telecommunications industry. She started noticing a number of women at lunches and in the office giving up on the minuscule device and pulling out their iphones attached to the old handset of a rotary phone!

In Istiniye Park, I saw them being sold from a distance while riding up the escalator. Coming in every imaginable color and pattern. I've been seeing them on tv, specifically in the daytime soaps. They just connect into the phone like a normal headset would.

I've been seeing them more and more on the street, including a woman today, blackberry in hand with matching handset, chatting and smiling, resting it on her shoulders.

Why is this cool? Did I miss something? What will they think of next.

Rainy Day Bowling

2011-06-11T20:27:00.000+03:00

A trip to the new Marmara Forum shopping center in Bakirköy on this rainy day led to lunch of iskender and a digesting game of bowling.

Its been years a long time since I last bowled and with no reason to hurry out into the rain, we played a game.

He started with a strike on his first bowl, setting the tone for the rest of the game

I honestly have no idea how to bowl, but I did manage one strike which I assume was a fluke.

The scores at the end were 72 me, 73 for O. Damn. Should have played another game!

Istanbul inspired Music

2011-06-10T12:12:00.001+03:00

The weather is beautiful and nothing beats taking a walk along the coast or sitting in a cafe with a cat sleeping on the seat next to you. If sitting there doesn't get you in the mood for the city, add some music to the mix.

Istanbul has influenced so many artists to sing about it's Bosporus, the nightlife, personality, etc... I've compiled a short list of some of the more contemporary songs I've found. If you know of anymore, comment and keep the list going!

Sertab Erener - Istanbul

This pop song is like most Istanbul videos, its basically a montage of street scenes and interactions with street animals and people. Its an upbeat about a love of this city from Sertab Erener, who many know from the Turkish Airline's jingle.

Duman - Istanbul

No montage here, just a rock song about the city with the a concert video look. Taken from the Fatih Akin movie "Crossing the Bridge."

Sezen Aksu - Istanbul Hatirasi

A melodic, slow song by this famous singer presented in Fatih Akin's movie "Crossing the Bridge." There is a montage, but compiled of old black and white photos of Istanbul.

Bon Mod - Stanbul

The electric disco duo from Istanbul gives us a completely different style than with the more romantic version above. Its fast, fun, colorful and more montage!

Teoman - Istanbul'da Sonbahar (Istanbul in Autumn)

An actual story this time by soloist Teoman

Since I can't include them all as embeded videos, here is a continuation of the list:

Tom Waits - Telephone Call from Istanbul (very blue-sy)

Peyk - Istanbul (smooth rock)

I refuse to add Four Lads - Istanbul (Not Constaninople) because I hate it so much. When I return to the US in less then 3wks, I'm going to deck anyone that even references that song to me.

Taxi Scams

2011-06-06T19:54:00.000+03:00

Foreigners and locals alike encounter a scheming taxi driver at some point in their taxi-taking lives. I'm sure I've been swindled a time or two (and too proud to admit where and when on here). However, sometimes with a little charm, I am the one who comes out on top.

The trick to taxi drivers is to get them talking. Be lively, tell jokes, talk about politics (but always agree because for the money you're gonna save, its worth it), rave about the city, tell them you have a strapping Turkish boyfriend - they admire that, and listen as they detail their home town, nodding and saying "wow, I hope to visit someday."

With these few tricks, I've walked away from many a 15tl fares for 5tl. Had a free fare once from a sympathetic driver on the day of the move from my old apartment stuff loaded into his yellow opal.

Unlike some unwitting passengers, the taxi drivers have a choice.

Oy ver! Oy vey!

2011-06-01T18:31:00.000+03:00

The June 12th elections in Turkey and campaigns are putting out their last ditch efforts to garner some votes. Stands set up in all town squares, candidates racing from city to city and their vans, with their pictures on the side, staring up to the future blaring music and campaign ideas.

Erdogan and his party, AK Party, seemingly bought up every single advertising space in the country. There are about a dozen different ones, this one about the 2nd Bosporus Project. You can see how enormous if you look at the bus stop just below it.

Its fascinating to me (and I am politically jealous) as I see how vastly their elections differ from the American system. Biggest difference? Turkey has WAY more than 2 broken and boring parties. There are currently the 6 who have seats in parliament, but there is something like 28 more officially registered parties ranging from the far left with Communist Party(TKP) to Motherland Party(ANAP) all the way right with Felicity Party(Saadet) and with so many in between.

Strung between building and flying over streets, each party has adorned a fair amount of the city with these banners, like this one from the opposition party CHP.

Sadly, this race will not be a nail biter. Its pretty obvious who will win and even the NYTimes has a nauseatingly kiss-ass article about Erdogan: Recep Tayyip Erdogan Transcends Complex Politics in Turkey

If you're curious where you fall in Turkish politics, Al Jazeera has posted an interactive quiz:

Turkish Elections: How Would You Vote? -Its in English.

Unless you're familiar with politics here, some of the questions may be a bit confusing and some are just baffling. However, even if you just take the 5min to scan through, it gives you an idea of how a nation different from your own judges what is important to their society.

Döner

2011-05-30T12:43:00.000+03:00

Out with my roommate in Besiktas one day, we felt hunger pangs and I knew I had to find a place before I went over the cranky cliff. Wandering around, we couldn't see anything appetizing in the sea of boring börek places and Kahve Dunyasi. Then I remembered! On NTV, there is a show where Vedat Milor travels around Turkey, eats and critiques. One day, we caught him in Besiktas eating at a döner place that he really enjoyed and I knew exactly where it was!

We got there and in the sea of business men in suit on lunch, we managed to squeeze in to the narrow space to order. We sat outside on a shared table, just out of the hot suns reach, fiddling with our cold cokes as we waited.

Relief arrived in the form of 2 yarim ekmek döners (1/2 loaf döner sandwiches). 6tl a piece, 2tl for a cola.

When he saw my camera out, he was yelling for me to take his photo and then posed smiling.

I wish I could have grabbed a photo from the inside. They were baking fresh pide right there and we watched the fresh loaves get mixed, shaped and tossed into the oven.

Karadeniz Pide Döner Salonu

Sinan Pasa Mah

Mumcu Bakkal Sokak no. 6

Besiktas

212-261-7693

(closed Sundays)

Our non-muhtar

2011-05-26T01:01:00.001+03:00

Every neighborhood (mahallesi) has what is called a Muhtar. They are elected officials that handle the registration of residents, apartment, ID, birth certificates and so forth.

One day, O and I were registering official change of address forms for our apartment since I had obtained residency. A friend of his was with us as they had lunch plans straight afterwards.

O, his friend and I walk into our muhtar's office, who according to the website is a 40-something year old woman. Knocking on the door, a young boy of about 14yrs answers, then leads us into the office where we were expecting his mother to be sitting behind a desk covered in paperwork. Instead, this 14yr old walks around the desk, sits down and asks what we need. I look at O and his friend in shock, but they both seemed calm so I figured this must be kosher.

He then very officially gathers the paperwork, we scribble signatures, he signs, stamps and done. We say our goodbyes and the office door closes behind us as we head back outside into the sun.

Walking up the street a little bit, I couldn't help but mention the fact that our muhtar has what is presumedly her son doing her job! Thankfully the guys also thought it was really weird, especially the friend who's muhtar in his neighborhood isn't prepubescent, but both had decided to keep calm during the whole situation because either way the paperwork was completed.

If local elections come up for muhtar I'd vote again for our çalışkan, 14yr old muhtar because he's too young to vote for himself.

Our muhtar. He signs his paperwork with crayon.

Tasarım Alaturka (Design a la Turkey) exhibition

2011-05-24T14:13:00.000+03:00

"Turkish advertising agency Rafineri opens a design exhibition that fully reflects Turkish style. The exhibition, titled 'Tasarım Alaturka' (Design a la Turkey) includes things such as T-shirts with the image of arabesque singer Orhan Gencebay, spicy Turkish food decorated with the face of a beloved movie orphan and plastic bags with a Chanel logo" - Hurriyet Daily News

A free exhibit that was one of the most fun I had been to for a long time. It takes the everyday Turkish culture, plays with it and makes it an a psychical object that can be seen and interacted with.

Anyone who has spent 10 minutes in a Turkish household know that lace doilies are on every possible surface. "Bayandan Temiz" takes that to a whole new level exaggerating the doily phenomenon to fit over a car.

This one was my favorite. Taking a piece of home from Seattle and incorporating a love of Turkish çay. We found out from our own little impromptu private tour from the gallery director that Starbucks found out and loved the idea so much they sent them tea as a gift!

There are so many plays on Turkish culture from a "One Minute!" rolex inspired by Erdogan to a yoga/prayer mat that make you giggle as you walk through. It does really help to have some idea of Turkish culture and icons as you'll encounter subtle puns at government, religion, idioms, mothers, movies, Zeki Müren and even simits.

The exhibition is free and located at the Akaretler Sıraevleri in Besiktas by the W Hotel. I recommend checking it out soon as it is only open until May 30th.

Fenerbahçe Championship

2011-05-24T11:29:00.001+03:00

Again, I give my half hearted apology to all of you Besiktaş and Galatasaray fans. Istanbul must have sucked for you yesterday cuz it totally rocked for us. After doing all sorts of responsible people things in the morning we were free in the afternoon to pick up our tickets and on the way see yellow and blue being celebrated everywhere.

There were the more casual business man, wearing suits with a subtle FB tie or lapel pin. The next jump up was the more casual t-shirt wearing people, the new t-shirts that had been produced the night before. From there you have the jersey wearers and then you've got the flag folk. The die hards to schlep those everywhere, waving the crap out of it or wearing it like a super hero cape. Oh even the Bosporus Bridge was yellow and blue. It could not be escaped.

After finally letting us in an hour and a half late, we went up into our usual section and joined in with the crowd as the sun set shouting, singing and eat enormous amount of sunflower seeds. Sections interact across the stadium shouting things like "sari", "lacivert", "sampiyon" and "fener" back and forth.

There were several performances to get the show started and the Fenerbahçe men and women's teams came out to represent basketball, volleyball etc, some of which also won championships in their own sports.

There were fireworks, a light show and then all the people who helped the team throughout the season are cheered on stage, the owners, coaches and then finally the team. More light show, fireworks and music!

The stadium going mad as Alex comes out, Brazilian flag draped over his shoulders and the crowd singing "I Love You Alex!"

The team took the the pitch, medals around their necks, singing, dancing, taking photos and coming as close to the fans and safely as possible.

Goal King Alex de Souza (#10), our Brazilian import, running around with the flag over his shoulders. And a poor camera man falling on his butt.

Then the fans became overwhelming for the security and they flooded onto the pitch, taking it over. They beelined straight for the players or the stage, lighting fireworks, dancing and singing and holding flags in the air.

The whole walk back to the Kadiköy pier, people were still full of energy. In a dolmus full of fans, we made it back to Taksim in one piece and exhausted. Today, I'll be hand washing the stench of cigarettes and firework smoke out of our jerseys before hanging them in the closet until next season.

Sampiyon Fener!!

2011-05-22T23:58:00.002+03:00

Last year we attended the disappointing championship game where after news from the Besiktaş-Bursapor game that they tied, our players just seemed to stand around lazily thinking we had it in the bag. Needless to say, we were pretty embarrassed after finding out it wasn't true and we lost by tying with Trabzonspor.

This year we won! Our 18th championship title. The streets are insane. Our neighbors put an FB flag out that is so big, it covers the facade of their building! When our championship was announced even some ferry boat horns went off!

This year, Fenerbahçe played in Sivas against Sivasspor. This made none of the difference on Bağdat Caddesi here in Istanbul. Custom made jerseys on our backs, we took the ferry over to join the festivities in Fener stomping grounds.

As per usual, this is not a sidewalk, this is a normally busy side street. Today, it was a sea of Sarı-Lacivert (yellow and blue)!

Singing, dancing, shouting, whistling, air horns, car horn all going off. It was mayhem. Fun fun fun mayhem!

video of the insanity!

I should also mention that I went to all this today with a broken toe. Dragged my gross, purple, swollen foot all up and down the street and coastside for this, so winning was worth it!

A picture of my busted foot. I'm wearing my Ke$ha sock. I don't know why I call it that, but when I cut it that way so I could ice my foot, I thought it looked like her style. It just is what it is. I let my foot rest up for a few hours this morning in preparation.

Now for 5tl a piece, we bought tickets for tomorrow's celebration at Fenerbahçe stadium! Sorry for those of you who aren't FB fans. I realize football here is a bit like politics, but you're going to have to bear with one more fanatical post after this and then everything will be Fener free for a long time.

Weddings ala Turka

2011-05-14T14:41:00.000+03:00

The last post was about children, this post is a step backwards and its about the weddings.

Turkish weddings are exceptional in the sense that they're fast. They're secular so you don't have to pray, sing, kneel, pray, amen and all that jazz. There is the bride, groom, the municipality representative and two witnesses. Two minutes of conversation, "yes" being shouted out, sign the book and DONE! This was actually my first Turkish-Turkish wedding (Turkish/Swedish-Bosnian, Turkish-German, etc)

Last weekend, we went to wedding of O's friend's. Both the bride and groom were good friends/work colleagues of his, so it was sort of extra special. Dressed up, gold in our pocket, we made our way to Besiktas.

The wedding locale. Of course you can have it anywhere like in a hotel, but doing it here is a simple, inexpensive option. Turkish city hall version.

It was like going to see a movie. I sat with the girls and did the mandatory gossip of what the dress would look like, etc...

Bride, groom and municipality (and Atatürk)

a close up of the bride and groom

A full picture of the dress

After the ceremony was over, 50% of the people run and get in line to congratulate the new couple, present them with gold and take a photo. The other 50% go for a cigarette break and wait for the line to shorten.

Gold coin. This is a 1/4 and about 125tl ($78). Traditionally you pin it to the brides dress.

Once all the excitable old people were out of the line, we jumped in and waited for our turn to give our gold piece and say our congratulations. We put the gold coin into a bag instead of pinning it. I was so relieved because knowing my luck, I would have stabbed her or me with the pin and there would have been blood.

and then we took our group photo!

There was no reception afterwards as some people close to the couple are still doing their military service, so next month we'll dress up again and party!

The Kid Conundrum

2011-05-13T22:58:00.000+03:00

Its been a long time since I spent enough time in the States to remember if this would happen and if it were, I doubt it would happen with such frequency as it does here.

Living in Turkey, you get used to being asked on a regular basis where you're from, what your occupation is, where you live, how much you pay for rent, how much you weigh, your age and if you're in a relationship and getting married (preferably soon!). If you answer yes to relationship question, it opens a can of worms.

The next question 9/10 times is "how many children will you have?"

This conversation is sacred with no one and I'm familiar with it with taxi drivers, the stylists at the salon I go to, women in the dolmus and even sales women.

Back in November I was buying my grandma in NY a red, silk, tulip motif scarf from Vakko for Christmas. For those not familiar, Vakko is a high end clothing store in Turkey. You receive chocolates and bottled water while you shop and Nordstrom level service. Sort of.

While sifting through hundreds of scarfs the two women and I began chatting. Once all the formalities were out of the way, worms-can-explosion.

Older saleswoman: If you're in a relationship, you should be getting married soon?"

me: "no, there is no hurry."

Older saleswoman: "But if you get married, you can start having children!"

me: ".......uh...I am not in a hurry for children. I'm only 26!" I practically choked on my chocolate at this point.

Older Saleswoman: "26! You should marry and start!" *points to much younger saleswoman "she is 25, has two babies already"

Younger saleswoman starts telling me her babies ages and names. At this point, I found the perfect scarf and make my way to the cashier, the young saleswoman walking with me. I was happy with my purchase, but not with being peer pressured into making babies.

Sometimes I just say I'm not ready yet. Other times, especially with the more pushy people I am blunt and say its not even on my mind and I don't think I would ever want children. I'm happy with my two cats.

Maybe I should start carrying photos of random children in my wallet and pretend their mine.

Kedicik

2011-05-08T10:29:00.002+03:00

My life is under a constant state of attack. One moment you're relaxing with a cup of coffee and the next you're under full kitten assault. Nothing is safe, especially not your feet. You learn to accept drive by foot swats and under-the-sofa leg pounces. Beware of their cute little stares when they know they've done something naughty.

This is Katu. He is the sweetest, dopiest little guy. He is really affectionate with people and loves to be on your shoulders. He loves men with beards, recently mopped floors and panda themed toys. He really hates eyewear and gets angry when people wear eyeglasses.

This is Cimu, the sister in this duo. She's a bit more mature than her brother and behaves more like an older cat. She loves sun, catching flies and going behind the washing machine. She will eat everything in site if she has the opportunity, even tabasco sauce.

When they behave, the house is oddly quiet.

They were found abandoned. Someone's house cat got pregnant and the babies were just left outside. Happens that way. People let the mama cat nurse the kittens, then just toss the kittens out to fend for themselves. Those people never think of spaying their cat...but if I start down that rant, I'll be pounding away at my keys for awhile. Anyway, Cimu and Katu were found by a woman who was taking care of them and she gave them to us. They were about 6-7wks old then. They've grown so much since then and are only getting cleverer.

Their names come from the Laz langauge of the Black Sea. Its a language closely related to Georgian and the language that O's father's side speak. Katu means cat, Cimu means salt.

Mercimek Çorbasi (Lentil Soup)

2011-05-05T14:06:00.003+03:00

I totally understand that its May and I should be making lemonade, but when you take a look at the outside, it IS soup weather:

That sunshine there for "current" weather is a lie. Its cold, grey, foggy and raining. What a disMay.

A few months back, I bought a cookbook called "Turkish Table" by Gonul Candas. Its filled with hundreds of Turkish recipes and then an odd variety of French, German and Russian. Sometimes the recipes are a bit different than how they're made in the homes here, they usually come out similar. The other night, we made Irmik Helvasi (Semolina dessert) and while the directions were a bit weird to the seasoned helva maker, it turned out just great. Point being, this is the lentil soup recipe I use and pass on to you. (First, I am going to eat this bowl I made and then post about it). (ok, done).

I first put 3/4 cup red lentils in a bowl and rinse them several times until the water is now longer cloudy. Soak them for 30min or so.

Red+Lentils = rentils :)

While the lentils soak in their bath, cut a small onion and cook them in oil. When they're getting clear, add a big teaspoon of flour and stir.

Another waiting-for-the-lentils side job is to mix one egg yoke and 1/2 cup of milk to be added near the end of the soup.

So back to the onions. Onions clear, flour added, start adding 4 cups water and beef bouillon. I actually use chicken bouillon because we have 5 packages in the house for some reason. Beef, chicken. Fark etmez.

Once all that is done, dump in our waiting lentils and give it a quick stir and let it sit on medium-low heat as the lentils soften. Stir occasionally.
When the lentils are soft, pour in the milk-egg mixture and stir a little, then take off the heat.

You can sieve the soup or use a mixer like I did. Slice some lemon, cut a loaf of bread, sprinkle with sumac and salt to taste. Afiyet olsun!

Red Lentil Soup

4 cups water

chicken or beef bouillon

3/4 cups red lentils

1/2 cup milk

1 egg yolk

teaspoon flour

1 small onion

salt, black pepper to taste

*makes approximately 4 servings*

No Turkish Taxis in NYC

2011-05-04T20:34:00.001+03:00

Well, this is kind of a bummer and a shocking one at that. News came out last year that Turkish automotive manufacturer, Karsan, was one of three companies competing to be the new, exclusive producer of 13,000 new taxis for New York City. The contract is worth $1billion.

Karsan Taxi candidate

It was announced Monday that Karsan was no longer in the running and it was until today that the winner was announced between Ford and Nissan.

Read why:
"Karsan said last month that it was prepared to build a plant in Sunset Park (Brooklyn), potentially creating hundreds of jobs."
Karsan, From Turkey, rejected - NYTimes

Nissan's winner

Nissan pulled through in the end, beating out Ford, and by the end of the decade will replace all of the Manhattan's clunky, old Crown Victorias. Nissan's may not have the design of Karsan's candidate, but it was chosen for its features and I'd imagine its fuel consumption will be far better than a Crown Vic. Also, the Nissan looks more like the Cash Cab (Quiz Taxi). I hope to be on Cash Cab someday. I already know who my one phone call would be (my dad, cuz he's full of all that Trivial Pursuit knowledge and gets all the pies before everybody else).

City's Next Taxi: Nissan - NYTimes

Ford's ambulance-looking taxi candidate

I would have liked getting off a flight from Istanbul in JFK, hope into a cab and zoom to midtown in a Turkish taxi (but USA made!). I don't even get that opportunity here as most cabs are Opal, Peugeot, Renault and very occasionally an old, rickety Tofaş, driven by an old man with a smoker's cough.

Istanbul - Where everything is deliverable

2011-05-02T16:22:00.003+03:00

Its a city of roughly 12 million (10-17million depending on who you ask) and its the ideal place to be an agoraphobe. You would never ever have to leave your home for anything.

If you're hungry, you can order everything you crave with one of the best websites I've ever come across, yemeksepeti.com (english available). You create a free account, put in your home address and scroll through the list of restaurants in your deliverable area. Chinese, pizza, sushi, burgers, home-style Turkish foods, cakes, McDonalds, BurgerKings, Dominos, PizzaHut etc.. We've ordered juice at 3am. Last night we ordered chinese food to eat while watching the NBA semi-finals.

List of restaurants. Green means open, red means closed. There is a rating system to the right of each name. 5/5/5 (speeds, service, taste) - the higher the number, the better. The other symbols stand for promotions, discounts...

This is the menu list for Miss Pizza (yum!) You can see that it gives the pie name, ingredients and price. Simply click the plus sign, amount you want to order and customize - extra cheese, extra olives, etc. Once you've ordered pizza for your and your friends, added some drinks, dessert, click on "sepeti onayla."

From there you will be asked to pick the delivery address (as you can put multiple address per account) get an overview of your order, you can tell them if you want it delivered today, tomorrow and even at what time. Can chose cash, credit, multicard, add some extra notes into the box such as "please bring change for 50tl" or "add extra napkins". Alternatively you can also click on the box next to the tree sapling if you don't need forks, knives, napkins. Deliveries take approx. 45min depending on time of day and distance to your house.

More than just food can be delivered to your house. I've found that almost all pet stores have delivery services for food, litter etc. I've flirted with the idea of having someone else schlep kitty litter up 6 floors for me. If you have a dog or cat who hate's going out, have the vet make a home call and do the vaccines and check up in your living room.

Your local corner store (bakkal) will deliver bread, water, cookies, cakes, milk or anything else they sell. They usually send a kid or young teenager. You can give them a call and tell them or you can shout out the window until someone hears you and then lower your basket to them.

Water and gas are delivered. Water is sold in 19liter containers and I sure as hell don't want to carry it, so you call the number, give them your 5 digit code and then sometimes 10-20min later there will be a knock on your door. For gas, while most of the homes are connected to the city's pipeline, some people still need tanks. Aygaz, with their famous jingle, will drive around and deliver tanks to your home.

A silly Aygaz commercial with the jingle. Its mostly in English.

Supermarkets deliver. Migros, Carregour, Real, DIA, the list goes on. You can call them or order online.

It goes without saying you can get delivery from IKEA and furniture companies. Online shopping is popular with hepsiburada.com.

It is basically safe to say for many companies, especially your local neighborhood ones, if you ask nicely and don't make a ridiculous purchase, you can pretty much order everything to your home. Its pretty awesome when the weather is terrible out and you don't want to leave the house.

Çekul Vakfi Tree Planting

2011-04-26T09:16:00.001+03:00

Early Easter morning we woke up and bundled ourselves up to go plant some trees. It occurred to me shortly before getting dressed that I didn't really own anything appropriate for going into the woods and working in the dirt. It came down to whatever was easiest to wash or dry clean.

We signed up with Çekul Vakfi to plant trees. It is it foundation that I was gifted 7 trees from for New Years, 7 trees to offset my carbon footprint for the year. You can revisit the eco-friendly post: here.

Grabbed the bus outside the Ataturk Kultur Merkezi with about 100 or so other volunteers and as we boarded we were given stickers to wear. Hopefully printed on recycled paper ;0)

The bus ride took about 35min or so, some of it off road and right near some cliffs of the black sea.

On the flat field above the sea, it was windy and salty. May begins in a week and it feels like December.

To beat the cold, I dug fast and furiously. The holes were already kind of there, but the trees needed to be unwrapped, roots loosened and planted.

Mission Complete! Tree will now grow big and tall and birds will make nests in it and hopefully not be cut down in 100yrs.

Volunteers included families with small children and grandmas, couples, individuals, groups of 20-somethings and so on. Everyone grabbed a ho and looked for a tree. There were so many volunteers there were actually not that many trees for each person to plant. I planted one, O planted one, then in the spirit, we handed off our tools to the next people.

At the end, we were rewarded with really nice, hot lentil soup. It was prepared in two big steel pots and we all stood in line, they poured it into our paper cups, we grabbed fresh bread out of the bag, squeezed some lemon and ate while standing around and chatting. In the cold wind, it tasted amazing. So amazing, I went back for another helping (I waited until everyone had their firsts). At the end, they had so much left, I graciously volunteered to eat a 3rd helping to lighten the load.

After soup, they took a group photo, the bus showed up and we went home. It didn't take very long and we were back in Taksim in the early afternoon. I want to return in a few years, see if the trees have grown at all.

**Update**
Çekul Vakfi posted the photos from the event and I finally saw them online:

The rest of the photos are on the Çekul Vakfi website.

Easter in Istanbul

2011-04-24T22:21:00.000+03:00

Admittedly, I normally wouldn't celebrate Easter in the US. In Istanbul however, we find it as another excuse to have a big dinner with friends. This time we found the "last" pork butcher in Istanbul and bought over a kilo of ham to prepare.

Dying Easter Eggs a few days ago

We tied the eggs to a branch, tied to the lights for decoration. We even had bunny napkins I bought last year. We had so much food too.

A closer look at the ham. First time I ever made it, so baked it with a honey glaze, apples, carrots and onions. Alongside mashed potatoes, a salad, easter bread and 2 bottles of wine.

As a dessert I made apple pie and we ate the heads off of the chocolate bunnies I found at Kahve Dunyasi.

Happy Easter to all!

Sofu Baba

2011-04-20T16:07:00.002+03:00

Ever had one of those moments where you're in a place you've been 1,000 times and you see something you've never noticed before? Walking home one evening we saw an emerald green glow down the street, one that we frequently walk down and were discussing if its a new fish shop. Is it new, is it old? Well we've never seen it before, so its probably new. We continued walking closer, debating what it could be when we came close enough to see:

Was Sofu Baba always there? We doubt he would be brand new, we would have noticed the construction. By the looks of the Ottoman style pasha hat adorning is tomb, it can't have been someone who died recently. So long has Sofu Baba been hanging out there in plain sight?

Lets put it this way. He was alive when Fatih Sultan Mehmed conquered Istanbul in 1453. 1453! So indeed, Sofu Baba can certainly not be a new installation and we found a story to go along with it:

Saint Sofu was a soldier of the Conqueror Fatih Sultan Mehmed. According to legend, time of Korean war (1950s), people were listening radio, at one of the cafes in Fındıklı and one soldier walked in cafe and sit down also. After he put a bag on the table he asked others:

” I’m looking for a person, his name is Saint Sofu and as far as I know he is living somewhere here, does anybody knows his house?”

People were surprised and one of the old man at cafe replied to this soldier:

“Son, Saint Sofu is not living anymore, he is our saint and his mouseleum is next to here, but how did he give his address to you?”

This time, young soldier surprised and he put his hands on his head and he was frozen… Then he began to tell:

“I’m coming from Korea, I’m originally from east of Turkey, from Diyarbakır I came here by ship and I have to see him before I go my hometown. I fought like a hero during war in Korea, I also joined Kunuri battle where ı met Saint Sofu.

It was another bloody day and we were fighting, then I saw a man he came to me with his softly smile and said:

‘Why are you so excited, there is no need for rush! To be afraid is not something for such a brave man!’

Then he came closer to me and he put his hand on my shoulder and my whole body immediately began to feel his sweet clemency. Then he said me’ Well, do not afraid just go and do what you have to do’ I began to feel braver and asked him:

‘Who are you, what are you doing here?’

‘My name is Saint Sofu, I’m living in Fındıklı,
İstanbul. When you come back from war, visit me, everybody knows me, if you ask, they will show you my place…”

Soldier went on:

“Then he suddenly disappeared and I continued fight. In the evening I told this event to my friends and they all told me that they also saw him! He encouraged them too! I still feel his clemency on my body and thats why I’m here…

(credit: Tulip&Rose)

So apparently Sofu Baba is something. Its something small, but it was kind of exciting to find. I think now we're going to pay a bit more attention while we walk around.

If you want to see Sofu Baba, he is located in the Findikli neighborhood, one tram stop down from Kabatas, up Mebusan Sokak, next to the eloquent Mitsubishi Heavy Equipment store.

Istanbul Modern

2011-04-18T10:09:00.000+03:00

Another day, another museum. This visit wasn't one of 1,000yr old Byzantine antiquities or Ottoman relics but of Turkish modern art. Like most modern art museums its filled with a wide variety of paintings, installations and things that make you go "huh?" Opened in an old warehouse located right on the Bosporus in Tophane in 2004, its the first of its kind in Turkey.

I got in for free this time too! No, I didn't manage to snag a museum card (for students and citizens only), but I did visit on a Free Thursday. Otherwise it is 12tl for Adults and 6tl for students and children.

Photography isn't allowed inside, so this is the only photo I managed to take

This is my favorite installation. Its a long hallway of books, suspended from the ceiling and pretty low actually. Everyone walks around looking up to see if they spot one they read as a child. Most are in Turkish, but there were quite a few in German, English, French and lots of classics.

Istanbul Modern Art Museum

Meclis-i Mebusan Ave. Liman İşletmeleri
Sahası Antrepo No:4 Karaköy - ISTANBUL

Tuesday-Sunday 10am-6pm(8pm on Thursday)

closed on Monday

If you've got some free time, check the museum out. Afterwards I suggest walking towards Karaköy and getting a fish sandwich on a cart from the fish market and watch the activity in the Haliç. Then satisfying your sweet tooth with baklava and fresh çay from Karaköy Güllüöglü. Sugar high complete, you've got options of where to go next with the ferry, tram and tunel.

Ill in Istanbul

2011-04-15T12:05:00.002+03:00

Far away from home, from comfort food and familiar remedies, what to do when you get sick?

Every street has an eczane or pharmacist. Similar to Europe, you won't need a prescription to pick up drugs to soothe your cold or flu. Ask for the medicine you want or explain your symptoms. Here are some examples of what you can say
Cold: soğuk algınlığı
Flu: grip
Fever: ateş
Sorethroat: boğaz arisi
Stuffed nose: tıkalı burnu

Meds at the ezcane usually only cost a few lira. If you're concerned about what you may be given to take and since the packaging may be in Turkish, ask them if you can see the information off the computer for more details. Most are produced by Bayer and other international pharmaceutical companies, so information is available in English as well.

Another method is to allow a Turkish person closest to you subject you to any number of home remedies. Their number 1 weapon of choice? Lemon Cologne. You'll get doused with it like you're being exorcised. I loathe lemon cologne. One whiff and it causes an almost migraine-like-splitting headache.

In this culture it must be noted that cold is fatal. Any contact with cold and you'll drop dead. Stay away from windows (open windows and fresh air are especially dangerous), keep your feet in socks and slippers and stay under a blanket at all costs. If your hair is wet you might as well start measuring for a coffin.

You'll be handed spoonfuls of weird goo. Scarfs with lemon cologne and pepper to wrap around your neck. Tea. So much tea that you'll begin to feel bloated.

While some of remedies may help, I prefer to pick and chose which I like and just drink a tablespoon of my imported nyquil and dayquil. That being said, I am on the mend from catching what seems to be a hybrid cold/flu.

Doğum Gunum

2011-04-10T09:44:00.002+03:00

Back in the blogless days of the 1980s, I was born on this day.

Sun is shining, sky is blue, breakfast is imminent (*update: had great tatli kahvalti and hot chocolateat Cafe Susam) and then dinner out later tonight. I already opened some of my presents and my s/o decided the theme this year should be "Turkish Culture."

Turkish Literature: My Father's House - Orhan Kemal

Since its obvious that I love to read! This is the first of his "Books about a Nobody" and a man many think should have won the Nobel Prize over Orhan Pamuk.

Music: Athena - Pis

Maybe this is not the most intellectually esteemed music on the Turkish market, but I like them and I am kinda excited to play it in my car when I take a trip back the states. Its good rock-out-in-the-car-music.

Sample. And I bet, even if you don't understand Turkish you'll find it catchy!!

Art: Balıkçı Dükkanı - Eren Eyüpoğlu

A painting I saw in the Istanbul Modern Art Museum and really liked. Its from female painter Eren Eyüpoğlu of a fish shop. It will be hung in the kitchen once its framed since the vibrant red in the painting will contrast nicely with the dark green paint on the walls.

Blogging back to normal...?

2011-04-07T12:39:00.001+03:00

I'd like to say this is the first time I haven't been able to access blogger in Turkey. Blogger or Google for that fact has a tendency to argue with Turkey thus getting shut down for a period of time. For awhile, even google maps was hard to access. This time it lasted about a month and while I was able to update, I had to hide my I.P. in order to access my actual blog. Just annoying I tell ya!

I think its all back to normal now for the most part. I hope. This could just be a one or two day system glitch before it all gets closed off again. People everywhere else in the world probably haven't noticed the slightest difference. I saw overnight my Turkish readership drop to 0. It caused a raised eyebrow and then some googling (yeah, I still prefer to use them after ALL this) and found:

"Google's Blogger Banned in Turkey of Soccer Piracy"

Right. Thanks a lot you soccer hooligans. Just had to ruin it for the rest of us. From the various Turkish based blog I follow, the same sentiment was echoed repeatedly "Turkey banned blogger. AGAIN. *sigh*".

So for the rest of us keeping within the laws, no copyright infringing on anything and just writing happily about kitty cats, vacations and food, leave us out of this and buy a better cable or satellite package for the your damn soccer matches or next time, I'm gonna Zinedine Zidane you!

Recent Reads

2011-04-06T13:26:00.000+03:00

When I go to work, I take the bus for approximately 40minutes. I get on at the first stop, in fact its a stop before the official first listed stop because the buses are turning around to begin the route over again. I jump on, sometimes the only person, give the bus driver an "iyi günler" and have every seat open to me. I always pick the same seat, by the wheel in the back. The seat most people hate but I like since I am short and I can relax my legs on the bump. Its also far from old people, who prefer to play musical chairs with other old people towards the front. I take it to the 2nd to last stop, so I've seen the bus go from empty to sardine can in just a few minutes. I generally ignore it all and take these 40min to read uninterrupted.

The Forty Rules of Love - Elif Safak

I enjoyed The Bastard of Istanbul, but was really frustrated with the high number of characters, most of them unlikable, in this book. It bounces back and forth between modern day New England and 13th century Turkey. Its about a book within a book to make matters more complex and follows the points of view of A Sufi, a drunk, a whore, a modern housewife, a modern wanderer, a guard, a religious leader, religious leaders wife, sons and adopted daughter, and about 10 more people. The basic theme is a Sufi traveling to Konya from Baghdad to spread his 40 rules of love. I became so frustrated with more and more characters being added, I started skipping pages. I'm not selling this book well am I? If you're a fan of the author, give it a try, otherwise read her other books or hope she comes out with something else soon.

Dining with Al-Qaeda - Hugh Pope

Three decades of accounts of Hugh Pope's life as a Middle East journalist. He talks about what he has seen and experienced throughout the book from the wildly ironic to some sad realities. He often talks about the behind the news stories, the parts that weren't published because editors knew the stories wouldn't sell and what some of his colleagues would do to risk their lives in order for a story. He talks about close calls with IEDs, front lines and evening fanatical members of Al Qaeda. It brings a combination of eastern and western mindset as he was able to communicate with both worlds. He is no longer a journalist, has written several other books inclusing Turkey Unveiled and is sometimes seen at Molly's Cafe.

The New Turkey - Chris Morris

I deal with the everyday in Istanbul, but I know next to nothing about how the government and population function together in this country. This book ties together how Turkey's history heavily effects its current politics and its future. How its geography is a benefit, but also a challenge when you border two different worlds. Discusses the good and bad, Greeks, Armenians, Kurds, women's rights, religion, military, earthquakes, the banking/credit system, US involvement, whip lash from the European Union with its ever changing minds. A Turkish client gave the book to me and I get sucked into it on my bus rides. One down side, it was published in 2005 and so much has happened since then that I wish Chris Morris would give an update on.

I need to find something new to read. Any recommendations?

Visiting Ancient Perge - The Greek City of Accidental Beer Invention?

2011-03-15T13:45:00.000+02:00

The whole purpose of going to Antalya last week was to see something new (for me!) and to escape the snow in Istanbul. It was a far better winter for it and we came back to warmth and sunshine. I went to work without a jacket today!

The last stop on our tour in Antalya was the ancient Greek city of Perge. During the Hellenistic period, Perge was once one of the most beautiful cities in the world, famous for its temple of Artemis and being home to renouned Greek mathematician Apollonious of Perga (wiki).

Tour guides often tell visitors that this was birthplace of beer, an accidental invention.

An old arena. Those piles of rocks were once the stands where spectators sat.

Some of the city walls and entances

This was a large covered market that with a center atrium. You should still see the outline in stones of the old doorways and the size of the stores, some being two stories.

Fierce sleeping guard puppy of Perge!

The site was really big and we only had 30minutes to explore before getting back into the car and heading for the airport. Luckily the airport was only 3km away, so we didn't have to race.

Entrance was 15tl, there are gifts a little cafe and such outside the entrance.

Visiting Ancient Rome - Aspendos

2011-03-14T20:57:00.000+02:00

On our last day in Antalya, we took advantage of a free tour guide being around, one who also speaks fluent German (*phew!). After breakfast we hopped into the car and made our way to the out skirts of Antalya for some culture.

This was the first stop and the bridge was built by the Romans, which is the old parts you can see. Then it was improved upon by the Selcuks, the "new" part itself is almost 1000yrs old.

Then it was back in the car, further down the road to the Aspendos ampitheatre.

I finally got to see some camels as well, for the first time in Turkey.

The ampitheatre was built in 155 AD by Greek architect Zenon, while Marcus Aurelius was the ruler of the region. Up until recently it was still used for performances, but that had to stop when modern equipment began to cause damage to the structure.

Aspendos can fit 7,000 people into the audience and there were holes where poles were put to hold canvases to give shade to theatre goers.

Taken from backstage. I had another special tour guide with me that day, someone who had actually performed 3 times in an opera showing me around.

Entrance fees into Aspendos is 15tl, but the fee may be included in the price if you take a tour.

note: this place becomes searing hot in the sun, so come prepared if you're there on a sunny summer day!

Düden Waterfalls

2011-03-13T11:29:00.000+02:00

I was kind of unlucky when I came to Düden waterfalls. There didn't seem to be much falling of the water. Normally visitors get to see impressive cascades coming from all sides. I had calm trickles that were a kind of tease to the big show in the spring/summer everyone kept talking about.

Despite the smallness of the waterfalls on my visit, it was still beautiful and green. A good reason to come back and visit again. You can also go up into the caves behind the waterfalls.

The lack of water however afforded me the oppertunity to see how it has shaped the stones that it rushes over. It reminded me a lot of the baroque caves I saw in Prague years ago.

Its a little trip outside of Antalya, away from the beaches and out of the heat in the summer.

To get here, you can drive or take the #85 (mini)bus. The trip is about 45-50min outside of the Antalya center and the entrance fee is 2.50tl. Apparently there are also camels there in the summer. There are also cafes and gift shops selling the usual trinkets.

Antalya - Hat eine Frage

2011-03-09T23:47:00.000+02:00

Istanbul is in the midst of a March mini-blizzard. The temperature Tuesday morning was an exhilarating -2 with flurries and strong winds. I had an unexpected 3 days off, so hopped an Atlas jet flight down to Antalya, just a few hours after work.

While the weather isn't exactly tropical, walking in the sun on the beach with a jacket beats freezing winds and sloppy wet streets.

the only snow we saw was on a mountain top from across the sea

There was also a ship wreck

Explored the old city where every single vendor asked me in German "habe sie eine Frage?" Its either Russian or German here, so at least they guessed right. Left the old town by walking through Hadrian's Gate and never having answered a single question.

Cute little trams in Antalya. They remind me of the ones I've seen in Sarajevo and Prague...but actually a lot less noisy.

Took a walk on the beach and sat in the sun for awhile, watching the surf. It was a bit cold and windy in the morning, but down at the beach it was nice and warm.

Thursday making a trip outside of Antalya to visit some waterfalls and ancient Roman sites. Hoping the weather behaves itself, even here. Then on Friday, back to Istanbul in time to return to work on the weekend. Until then, SUN!!!

Kariye Muzesi

2011-03-05T21:05:00.000+02:00

On my journey to visit all things old (like 5th century old!) in Istanbul, I spent a chilly Friday afternoon hanging out in this now famous former Byzantine church. I was separated from 15tl for my entrance fee and jealous of my friend's museum card which has free entrance.

Chora Church was first built in the 5th century, but the current building dates from 1077-1081. When Istanbul was conquered by the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century the church was eventually converted into a mosque. The gorgeous and colorful mosaics and frescoes were covered and minarets added to the exterior. In 1948 it was declared a secular museum and the original christian artwork was restored.

A close up of a mosaic depicting Jesus. The tiles are brightly colored and tiny, but making extraordinary mosaics.

The ceiling and dome are so ornate and the artwork was perfectly preserved.

The museum is open everyday except Wednesday. Entrance is 15tl and it is located in Edirnekapi, by the edge of the old city walls. You can take bus #28 from Besiktas and #87 from Taksim. The stop name is Aciçesme in the Fatih District. You'll see signs directing you towards Kariye Muzesi and it will take you into a neighborhood.

Chora Museum Website - english.

The website has a ton of history, information, photos and is updated regularly. It also gives hours, directions and a nice map. Check it out if you want to go for a visit.

Also, right outside the museum are stores selling pottery and knick knacks. I found large, beautiful, colorful Selcuk style tiles 2tl a piece. I bought a few as hot plates/decoration. I love those kind of cheap finds!

A Venti Nescafe please

2011-03-04T18:49:00.000+02:00

I happen to find one particular cultural phenomenon in Turkey to be both funny and endearing. I am standing in line at Starbucks, looking into the cold case at the cakes and sandwiches when I hear someone in front of me order a "nescafe."

Nescafe is a beloved, powdered coffee that is mixed with hot water, often has flavors and creme already added in. It can be found pretty much at every cafe and restaurant and although the packages cost approx. 35kurus per, places sometimes charge 5 or 6tl! Admittedly, I drink a cup of nescafe every morning. I like the taste and its simple.

On the flip side, I am a Seattlite and that breeds coffee snobbery. We love our coffee in about 1,000 different ways from Sunday, free-trade/fair trade, black, espresso or humongous, full fat/half fat/non-fat, soy milk, at just the right temp, from arabica to Guatemalan beans. We are the land of Java bars lining the roads every mile of the way, even ones with girls serving you in lingerie! We are the most caffeinated city and baristas are an open ear to us like bar men are to drunks. We are also the hometown of Starbucks. I find it slightly funny when in what can only be equated to my house of worship, does someone order a nescafe! Its blasphemy! Ok, not so severe obviously.

The world's first Starbucks in Pike Place Market, Seattle. If you're wondering, the mermaid changed for global domination purposes since the original one here has her breasts showing.

That being said, when I hear a person asking for nescafe, I kind of look to see who it is. Generally an older person who was dragged there by a grandchild and the board labeled with words like "venti" and "frappucino" could only seem like a foreign language. I get a slight laugh from it, quietly to myself. Hell, living here I feel confused almost 100% of the time, kind of amusing when its not me making the mistake for once.

When "abroad" becomes "home"

2011-02-28T20:57:00.000+02:00

When does that place you move to become home?

Its not an immediate feeling, not something that can be obtained overnight. It takes time to develop and for some it never happens. When you chose to move, especially to a foreign country, you are already willing to deal with the feeling of being a displaced for awhile. After awhile strange streets become the ones you travel done hundreds of times, you settle in at your favorite shopping destinations, hideouts, cafes and so forth.

Istanbul really became home for me when I started really investing into my life here. That means investing in everything from relationships with people and with businesses cafes, books stores with kittens, the ancient man who sells household items, the florist from Samsun, vets, etc. It also took making my apartment the most comfortable for me. Pictures hung on the wall, my books lining the shelf and even a new fridge and couch.

Some people can't imagine their home begin different from the place where they made memories as a child. Living the semi-nomadic life, its not that way for me. Each place I lived marks a different period in my life and my home now in Istanbul makes yet another.

I think for people who chose to become expats realize that home is really where you make it and how you make it. You're going to have the days where you're just angry at the world. You're pissed off, you want to cry because you didn't understand something or something went wrong and you feel defeated, frustrated and alone. You eat some of the precious comfort foods brought from home and call mom and dad and feel better. Luckily those days are very few and far between now, especially compared to when I first moved here and cried buckets over skype for hours.

Seattle (top) and Istanbul (bottom), each home in a different way.

Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art

2011-02-24T12:18:00.000+02:00

On my Musee-Extravaganza-Wednesday last week, I also went to the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art. Once again, its one of those places you walk past a thousand times and occasionally say to yourself "one day I'll visit you", but never do. So Wednesday became that "one day" and in I went.

Inner courtyard of the museum. It is the restored Palace of Ibrahim Pasha, close friend and Grand Vizier (1523-1536) of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent (who's tv show Mutesem Yuzyil is still wildly popular).

We walked inside and somehow got lost in the courtyard. I can not explain to you how we possibly managed that. We first walked into the cafe and gift store. Not the right entrance. Then we walked to the back to a big old door labeled "no entrance" and then another of the same. Defeated we stood at the covered balcony, taking photos of the Blue Mosque, but in actuality we were silently formulating a plan on how to get into the museum. Afterall, I paid 10tl! Finally saw it, immediately to the right of the door we walk in from. Yep, it was one of those moments of "doh!"

Filled with delicate figurines, devices, pottery...

To massive carpets that are 400-500yrs old. I looked completely dwarfed standing next to this carpet for Sultan Selim II.

Old, ornate Korans were on display as well

To get away from the bustle of tourists and shopkeepers in Sultanahmet or to go somewhere to escape the rain, you can find this museum in the Hippodrome, directly across from the Blue Mosque. Its is open 9-5 and 10tl. Free for museum card holders. Close Mondays.

A Çay in Asia

2011-02-17T22:06:00.001+02:00

I love going for walks. They're free and they're exercise without the gym. Sunday was a trip to Üsküdar by ferry and a bus towards Çengelköy where we sat down in the chilly weather for tea.

A cold seat by the Bosporus made warmer with hot çay and fresh börek.

While enjoying tea, we watched boats in the Strait, seagulls flying overhead and cats perched above tea garden patrons and out of reach of small children in the trees.

Also made some friends with this big street dog and his yellow lab partner who crushed me with love

The wind was pretty strong that day and the clouds moved in rapidly. It was misleading leaving the house, looked warm but was actually pretty brisk and wished I had my hat and gloves.

Back in Üsküdar we did a bit of shopping in the open air market. Amongst the fish mongers, fruit stands and butchers was a man who sold "the very things I would never eat". Sheep heads, yards and yards of tripe, hearts, feet, brains etc...

I only bought a kilo of blood oranges and corn flour. Nothing freaky like this

In order to get that last image out of your eyes, how about a ferry boat and sunset with old Europe off in the distance?

Istanbul Archaeology Museum

2011-02-15T19:32:00.001+02:00

I was saving the museums of Istanbul for cold, rainy days and today fit that description. Hovering just above freezing, sprinkling and just plain cold, coupled with a day off from work I finally went to the Istanbul Archaeology Museum.

Located in Gülhane Park, next to Topkapi Palace is the entrance where I paid 10tl ($6) to get in. Once inside, its stretches out further and further, filled with over 1,000,000 pieces of antiquity from Mesopotamian to Greek, Roman, Byzantine and later Ottoman.

Sarcaphogus made for Alexander (The Great)

Top floor of the museum, a mix of Lycian, Cyrpus and bronze age artifacts

There are so many corners and floors to explore. Audio guides are available and the information is in Turkish as well as English. Bring you best walking shoes, you'll be in there for awhile. And once you're done with the main building, you're not done with the place. Go outside and there are still 2 more museums. I was super happy I ate an açma before heading inside or I would have been famished.

There is a small museum, an old mosque, now with pottery and iznik tiles.

There is also another museum with Egyptian artifacts including mummies and old Hittite stuff.

There are still more museums in Istanbul that I need to explore. Given that its February, there should still be a few rainy and cold days left.

Istanbul Archaeology Museum Website

open 9-5 Tuesday to Sunday, closed Monday

Mercimek Köftesi (Red Lentil Meat-less-balls)

2011-02-13T22:46:00.000+02:00

I recently bought a cookbook in English about Turkish cooking. I had done research on which one I wanted before buying and finally found one that suited me best. I could have hung around some old women and have them teach me, but lots of "uh a little of this, that and done!" wouldn't work for me.

My first creation was mercimek köftesi, made of red lentils, bulgur, spices, onions and so on.

First had to wash 2 cups of lentils

Boiled the lentils in 3-4cups of water, turn off heat and then added 1,5cups of bulgur, stirred together and cooled.

Then add all the other ingredients. Parsley and scallions I had growing in my kitchen and diced onions (sauteed). Also black pepper, cinnamon, red pepper, salt and tomato salçisi.

Mix it with the lentil and bulgur mixture. Then form it into ovally shapes.

Then serve with bread and lemon.

This was kind of a pain to make due to the fact that I didn't know it would end up being this huge amount. Otherwise it was fun. I just don't know what to do with it all now.

Residency Permits

2011-02-07T21:39:00.003+02:00

For foreigners staying in Turkey for the long term, its important to apply for residency. Honestly, many people live here for years on end and never want to go through with the process. It used to be so easy not to. A tourist visa lasts 3 months, so every 3 months you had an excuse to visit somewhere. The restrictions are changing now and its becoming a bit stricter. Sometimes it means just getting a glare from passport control as they flip through pages and pages of Turkish visas in your passport to actually getting a restricted visa.

There has been so much buzz in the last few months about these "new" visas. They allow a tourist to stay up to 90 days, however once that is up, you are not allowed to reenter for 90 days. There is speculation that its only for British and Danish tourists, however many Americans have received it as well. Then there is talk that its not enforced or won't be until this summer. Who knows, but if you're living here, are you really willing to risk it? Especially for those taking a border run to Bulgaria...nothing like getting stuck in the middle of no where and not being able to return!

So how does one go about getting residency? Do you like root canals?
First off, make an appointment with the police stations as soon as possible at Istanbul Yabancilar Sube Müdürlügü

On the top left click e-rendevu. Once in there, you hit the button "rendevu al" ("take an appointment"). Once you're passed that, you'll have an option to switch the language in to English.

Have your passport at hand and fill in the paperwork. When it comes to selecting a date, pick the earliest in the day. If you chose an appointment later in the day, expect to be sitting there for a long time. Make sure you print out the documents in color and write down the reference number and put it somewhere safe. This lets you change or cancel your appointment. The wait list is currently 1-2months, so book early!

At the front page, fill out there form on the bottom left:

FYI: If you're using a mac, don't. You're going to need to access a PC and its best to use Internet Explorer.

You'll need in addition to the paperwork:
-4 color photos that can be taken at a photo studio. If you tell them its for ikamet, a good studio will understand whats needed.
-copy of your passport
-copy of your list entry stamp/visa
-bank account information ($300 per month)

The bank account information should be recent and signed by a bank manager. Contact your bank at home and have them fax something. You must have $300 minimum per month. So for a one year residency, have about $3,600 in your account.

Then you'll wait until your appointment. On the form you printed out, on the top right there should be a big number. That is your number in line. Wait until its called and go to the corresponding counter. They'll stamp and staple away, ask occasional questions about how long you'd like it for, etc. Then go downstairs and pay the fee. About 150tl for a year. Upstairs again, return to your officer and more stamping and chatting and go pay for your booklet just down at the end of the counters. Return with the receipt for stapling and stamping and then you'll get a slip saying when you can come back and claim your booklet.

After a week or so of waiting, you get this little blue booklet that looks like its been assembled in a kindergarten. They use typewriters still and in my recently renewed one, just lots of scribble and stamps.

It will really feel like such a pain, its chaotic there, but its also not really that hard. Many people hire agents, but to save several hundred lira sometimes all you need is a patient Turkish friend. There are also visas for students, marrying a Turkish citizen, playing sports and so forth. Make sure you chose the right one according to what you need.

Renewals can now be done in your neighborhood. Yay!

Getting to the Police Station link

My Dear, My Liver

2011-01-31T20:34:00.001+02:00

Recently some friends from my University days came to visit. They would hit all the touristy sights during the day and then in the evening we would meet and eat. Canım Ciğerim was not only their favorite meal from the whole trip, but its also a local Istanbul favorite.

You sit at a low table on a little wooden stool, kind of like you're in kindergarten under dozens of framed photos of Turkish celebs who eat there. The smoke from the cooking downstairs can make the dining area a bit stifling, but when you're hungry and waiting, its only more enticing. Some nights you'll have to wait for a seat as well. There are no menus. There are only 4 options. Beef, chicken, liver or mixed.

Within minutes of ordering, your table is overflowing with vegetables such as onions, roasted tomatoes, peppers, mint, cilantro, salads and so on. Best just to look at the picture.

FYI: the food has a spicy kick to it. Anna and Bobby hardly noticed meanwhile I feel like I have a heart condition because its so spicy. But I'm weak, like really really weak when it comes to spicy food, so I may not be the best judge.

The meat comes on skewers and its hot. The way you take it off is by taking a piece of flat bread in your hand and grabbing the meat off. Then you add all your fixings and eat. You are given screwers 5 at a time (10 total).

By the end of round one, you're almost full. It doesn't seem like much, but people start to cave somewhere during round 2. I can normally eat 7-8, then the last two are just begging to be eaten.

What remains

When you finish, they stack everything, taking the paper table cloths to wrap everything up inside and walk away with it like a package. Then comes a complimentary çay.

Getting this photo was a triumph. There was so much goofing off and the wait staff kept jumping in the photo. They were all super friendly and posed for my photo.

Canım Ciğerim

Minare Sk. No: 1 Beyoğlu

(located in Asmali near Tünel/Pera)

212-252-6060

p.s. dad...I need to take you here next time. You'll plotz!!

Duman at Otto Santral

2011-01-30T21:05:00.001+02:00

Crowded into the Bilgi University's Otto Santral Hall with 499 beer swilling people, I saw Duman in concert last night.

Duman is one of Turkey's most popular alternative/grunge/rock bands, producing in my humble opinion some damn good quality music. These stage veterans have been around since 1997 and has built up quite a discography which they played until almost 4am.

Seattle music scene followers may know that Duman's lead singer Kaan Tangoze has played in a number of venues there.

Starting next month, the age for alcohol consumption (and even being able to look at or be around alcohol!!) raises from 18 to 24(!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!). Many of the attendees were college students, so they played for hour, drank beers and made only a few sideways comments about how this could be their "last" Duman concert for a while until they are old enough.

Saying goodnight. Inevitably they always come back and sing more

Köprüaltı (Under the Bridge) (unfortunately the video gets kinda cut off here, best to see it on youtube)

Other favorite songs: Bu Aksam (Tonight), Belki Alisman Lazim (Maybe You Should Get Used to It), Senden Daha Guzel.

Muhteşem Yüzyıl (Magnificent Century)

2011-01-27T11:58:00.003+02:00

We've got endless BBC mini series' about King Henry the VIII, several epic Queen Elizabeth I movies, the Tudors on Showtime and the list goes on. Turkey currently has a period based show that's popular amongst viewers and controversy.

Muhteşem Yüzyıl is about the 10th Sultan of the Ottoman Empire, Süleyman the Magnificent. It tells an interpretation of his life as Sultan, conquests, battles and about the love of his life Hürem, a harem girl with Slavic roots. Its full of drama, intrigue, beautiful, cleavage bearing women, men with extraordinarily large hats and the saddest violins on basic cable.

I found a little trailer with English subtitles so you can get the idea.

The Turkish for the most part is pretty easy to follow, but sometimes I need a bit of guidance on a plot line.

I keep promising to read up on Ottoman history and just never get around to it. I haven't found the right book yet that I am willing to schlep around with me on the bus. Any recommendations? I'd prefer one that is less about war-fare and battles, more about daily life and such.

A walk

2011-01-25T12:27:00.001+02:00

A favorite thing to do is to start from Kabatas and just walk north along the Bosporus. Many times I've walked through Besiktas, stopped in Ortaköy for a snack of kumpir (baked potato with everything) or waffle before continuing on to Kurucesme, Arnavutköy and then into Bebek. The trip is about 7km.

For those of you not familiar with Istanbul, I begin my walk about 2km before that bridge.

Can't forget a love of cats!

This fisherman is unsnarling his twisted fishing line in the sunset in an attempt to pack up and go home.

These photos made me think back to last week when the weather wasn't cold and crappy (are we finally having a winter?!) and I didn't have a developing cold.

Animal Rights in Turkey

2011-01-23T13:23:00.001+02:00

A short break from my normal, light hearted Turkish experiences to use this as a platform to bring something up that is really important to me.

Barbara at Turkish Muse posted an informative post about an Animal Right Protest that happened on Istiklal this morning. Although its a bit late for the protest now, the information is relevant everyday.

You can see her post here "Protest Against Animal Cruelty-Turkish Muse". Includes video links of "shelters" and information on the horrid abuse commonly practiced in the municipality. This abuse is too everyday to be ignored and rights belong to all living creatures

**The images and videos are gruesome.**

I have volunteered in animal shelters and been to a number of them, what it happening here is NOT right and something has to be done.

Link to a petition to the mayor of Istanbul and the lead vet at Hasdal Shelter.

An Ode to Fistik

2011-01-21T13:57:00.001+02:00

Those who know me and those who have been reading my blog can easily say I am an animal person. Imagine what happens to an animal person when they go to change the water in the hamster cage and find some disturbing news instead. She was young, only about 8 months, but we assume she passed in her sleep.

Thanks for being the center of many of my stories in Turkish school. And for being courageous when drunk people rapped on your cage. For entertaining us and eating popcorn with us in the evening. Also for waking me up with the squeaking of your ball as you ran marathons into the night.

So to little Fistik, my little Syrian hamster, my first Turkish pet rest in peace little one and may you complete 100,000 laps on your ball in hamster heaven.

Seni özlecegiz.